1820's Corded Petticoat
Jun. 28th, 2013 11:33 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
atherleisureFor the 1825 court gown I made to wear to Dress U, I needed a corded petticoat appropriate to the era. It is based on an 1820’s petticoat in the Manchester Galleries.
Materials:
1 1/8 yd bleached cotton muslin (45” wide) (from JoAnn’s)
3 yd bleached cotton muslin (36” wide) (from JoAnn’s)
1 1/8 yd white satin ribbon (1/2” wide) (from JoAnn’s)
partial ball of cotton worsted weight yarn (Sugar and Cream) (from JoAnn’s)
Patterns:
I primarily used the 1827-1829 evening gown pattern on pages 56-57 of Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Englishwomen’s Clothes 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold.
I did not use the sleeves, cut the bodice front much narrower and somewhat lower than the pattern piece, and cut the bodice front on the straight grain rather than on the bias.
Construction:
This petticoat is almost completely machine-sewn. I hand-rolled the hems on the shoulder straps, gathered the skirt, and did the hooks and eyelets by hand, but other than that, it was done by machine. I just didn’t have the interest in it to do any more handwork than I needed to.
All seams are flat-felled since this is an undergarment, except the waist seam, which has been over-cast to prevent raveling. There are fifteen rows of cotton cording sandwiched between the petticoat skirt and a facing. It was done in much the same way as the later corded petticoat that I made a couple of years ago. The main difference is that this petticoat was gored so the facing was shaped and sewn on separately. I might have had enough yarn to do a sixteenth row of cording, but it would have been close. As it is, there’s very little left.
At this point, the petticoat is quite fitted through the bust but not terribly fitted at the waist seam, which is a little above the natural waist. So far this hasn’t been a problem for the dress, but if that changes, I will bind the waist seam and run a drawstring through the binding in place of the ribbon ties currently at the waist of the petticoat. I would have used tape ties instead of ribbons, but I didn’t want to buy anything for this project and didn’t have any tape on hand.
Undergarments:
This petticoat is fitted to be worn over a chemise and Regency stays.
Thoughts after wearing:
I don’t really know whether the cording does a good job of supporting the hem of the dress or if the great quantity of trim on the dress is self-supporting. At any rate, the petticoat worked out just fine when I wore my 1820’s gown to Dress U earlier this month.
Materials:
1 1/8 yd bleached cotton muslin (45” wide) (from JoAnn’s)
3 yd bleached cotton muslin (36” wide) (from JoAnn’s)
1 1/8 yd white satin ribbon (1/2” wide) (from JoAnn’s)
partial ball of cotton worsted weight yarn (Sugar and Cream) (from JoAnn’s)
Patterns:
I primarily used the 1827-1829 evening gown pattern on pages 56-57 of Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Englishwomen’s Clothes 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold.
I did not use the sleeves, cut the bodice front much narrower and somewhat lower than the pattern piece, and cut the bodice front on the straight grain rather than on the bias.
Construction:
This petticoat is almost completely machine-sewn. I hand-rolled the hems on the shoulder straps, gathered the skirt, and did the hooks and eyelets by hand, but other than that, it was done by machine. I just didn’t have the interest in it to do any more handwork than I needed to.
All seams are flat-felled since this is an undergarment, except the waist seam, which has been over-cast to prevent raveling. There are fifteen rows of cotton cording sandwiched between the petticoat skirt and a facing. It was done in much the same way as the later corded petticoat that I made a couple of years ago. The main difference is that this petticoat was gored so the facing was shaped and sewn on separately. I might have had enough yarn to do a sixteenth row of cording, but it would have been close. As it is, there’s very little left.
At this point, the petticoat is quite fitted through the bust but not terribly fitted at the waist seam, which is a little above the natural waist. So far this hasn’t been a problem for the dress, but if that changes, I will bind the waist seam and run a drawstring through the binding in place of the ribbon ties currently at the waist of the petticoat. I would have used tape ties instead of ribbons, but I didn’t want to buy anything for this project and didn’t have any tape on hand.
Undergarments:
This petticoat is fitted to be worn over a chemise and Regency stays.
Thoughts after wearing:
I don’t really know whether the cording does a good job of supporting the hem of the dress or if the great quantity of trim on the dress is self-supporting. At any rate, the petticoat worked out just fine when I wore my 1820’s gown to Dress U earlier this month.
