1870's Hat
Feb. 14th, 2026 03:12 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
atherleisureI made an 1870's hat last month. It's from the Penny Dreadfuls Dolly Varden hat pattern, which was no longer available when last I looked but I think has a new incarnation as one of Chantal Filson's Patreon patterns.
The pattern calls for some pretty beefy construction that I felt was overkill so I made it more along the lines of the instructions in a Timely Tresses pattern. I only used one layer of buckram and one brim wire. I had to make the tip wider to fill the crown. She has you wire and mull and then sew tip into crown, but I didn't do that. I wired both sides of the side of the crown and the outer edge of the brim. Then I cut the tip oversize and clipped the edges and folded them down into the crown. I clipped the headsize edge of the brim too and folded it up into the bottom of the crown instead of wiring there too. I did make up the crown and brim separately until the tip and brim were covered and then sewed the crown to the brim and covered the side of the crown.
It's buckram and wire, mulled in flannel, and covered with silk/rayon satin. Then there's a silk satin ribbon and velvet flowers for trim. The crown is lined with crinoline. Everything is handsewn because that's how I make hats.
I will try to remember to post pictures of it on me once I actually wear it with a costume. After a few weeks hanging on a bedpost, I figured it was better to snap a couple of pictures to post now than forget all about it waiting for a better picture opportunity.
ETA: I realized that I also didn't cut the brim covering the way the pattern said to. I cut the top to be smooth and then cut a straight strip for the under side of the brim. With the thick satin, gathering a circle twice the diameter of the hat would have been very chunky and clunky looking. As it is pleating the satin down to the headsize is thick enough.
The pattern calls for some pretty beefy construction that I felt was overkill so I made it more along the lines of the instructions in a Timely Tresses pattern. I only used one layer of buckram and one brim wire. I had to make the tip wider to fill the crown. She has you wire and mull and then sew tip into crown, but I didn't do that. I wired both sides of the side of the crown and the outer edge of the brim. Then I cut the tip oversize and clipped the edges and folded them down into the crown. I clipped the headsize edge of the brim too and folded it up into the bottom of the crown instead of wiring there too. I did make up the crown and brim separately until the tip and brim were covered and then sewed the crown to the brim and covered the side of the crown.
It's buckram and wire, mulled in flannel, and covered with silk/rayon satin. Then there's a silk satin ribbon and velvet flowers for trim. The crown is lined with crinoline. Everything is handsewn because that's how I make hats.
I will try to remember to post pictures of it on me once I actually wear it with a costume. After a few weeks hanging on a bedpost, I figured it was better to snap a couple of pictures to post now than forget all about it waiting for a better picture opportunity.
ETA: I realized that I also didn't cut the brim covering the way the pattern said to. I cut the top to be smooth and then cut a straight strip for the under side of the brim. With the thick satin, gathering a circle twice the diameter of the hat would have been very chunky and clunky looking. As it is pleating the satin down to the headsize is thick enough.
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Date: 2026-02-14 09:54 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2026-02-19 11:17 pm (UTC)