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I finished the shoes for the 1921 bathing ensemble I started last year. They went a lot faster than I expected.

1920’s bathing shoes

They're based on the ones here - https://www.1860-1960.com/xs0408p0.html.

I think these should work going back to about the beginning of bathing costumes through to the end of shoes for bathing.

They have cork soles covered with canvas, two layers of canvas for the uppers, cotton tape binding and laces, and cotton batting insoles covered with canvas. The originals strike me as being homemade, mostly because one of them seems to have three pair of eyelets while the other has two pair.

They're patterned after a pair of flats that I have that have enough structure to the uppers to allow me to pin fabric around them tightly without collapsing. I think they came out quite well, though if I were to do something like this again, I'd make sure to get more of the fabric eased around the toe instead of the heel. It's not worth redoing, but they'd look a little better that way.

I meant to take more in progress pictures, but I got on a roll and churned out a few steps with the uppers without a picture so you just get a picture of the soles and insoles.

Early 20th century bathing shoe soles and insoles
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I did a lot of needlework this year, but I didn’t make a lot of things. I liked the things I did make, but they were generally lengthier projects.

It was a much better year for events. There were several DFWCG events, and I went to Costume College. A friend and I even made our own mini-event where three of us dressed up, ate out, and went to a play.

This year’s projects behind the cut )

One of my goals for this year was to work from my stash. I was not nearly as successful as I was last year. The 1908 eyelet dress was all stash, but then the 1805 embroidered dress was all new materials. The 1876 dress was all stash, but the three bathing suits were all new materials except for a couple of balls of yarn. “Winter Lace” was stash, but “Street Scene” was new materials except for a few skeins of embroidery floss. The 1916 dress was stash, but the 1940’s dress was new materials. The stays, the nightcap, the vest, the Eleonora stockings, scarf, kerchief, skating cap, and flute décor were all from stash. The 1910’s purse materials were a combination of stash fabric and new threads. I bought wool fabrics for three dresses, wool yarns for two sweaters, and cotton yarn for a quilt that I haven’t started yet. I bought fabric and embroidery wools for an 18th century wallet. I bought some miscellaneous embroidery threads that don’t necessarily have a project planned. On the balance, I think that means that I had no net change to the fabric stash but increased the yarn and embroidery supplies I have. I shall have to try harder not to buy things in 2024.

Adjustment

Sep. 9th, 2023 07:20 am
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I went back to the 1921 trunks and picked up the cast off stitches to add more ribbing to the top of the back. I started with 12 stitches each side of the seam (six would have been better) and picked up six additional stitches at the end of each row until I had wrapped a little over halfway around the waist. I also did it with needles a size smaller. They are much more satisfactory now. I'm not sure how they'll do in the water, but I'm less worried about them and probably won't be constantly concerned they're falling down when dry.

Last night I knit a gauge swatch for my 1930's bathing suit, and I think holding the fingering weight yarn double is going to work. I also taped together the pattern for the 1940's dress that I bought fabric for in July. I would like to get both of those projects started today. I already cast on the bathing suit, but I'd like to get a mockup of the dress bodice cut out. That won't happen until later.

Trunks

Sep. 6th, 2023 08:35 pm
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I finished the trunks for the 1921 bathing suit. I'm not sure about the waist...it's low in back, which is always rather uncomfortable, and the ribbing doesn't feel like it's under much tension at all. If you look at pants patterns, the back is usually a much deeper and taller curve than the front. These trunks have the extra in the back leg that you would expect, but the back waist doesn't have any extra. If I were to make these again, which is extremely unlikely, I think I'd repeat the short rows from the bottoms of the legs at the waist. I'll see what happens when I trial them in the water, but I might end up adding beltloops at the waist so that I can put a cord around the waist or attach an elastic waistband.
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There are about ten rows left on the first leg of the 1921 bathing trunks. I expect I'll finish that today. They wouldn't have been quite as far along except that I ran into terrible traffic on the way to work Tuesday morning - we averaged about 1.5mph for 1.5 miles. I was glad I had some very easy, very plain knitting.

Yarn

Aug. 25th, 2023 06:27 am
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My big box of yarn came so I picked up my bathing sock last night. I finished the gusset and am a third of the way through the plain part of the foot. I suspect I'll finish tomorrow, but it could be Saturday if I get too busy.

Shipped

Aug. 18th, 2023 12:49 pm
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I usually like to think I'm pretty patient. I also usually don't care whether things I order online are shipped immediately. With my current yarn order, I'm finding myself unusually impatient. Yesterday it was "Why hasn't it shipped yet?" "Oh, I only ordered it yesterday. I shouldn't expect it yet." Today it shipped. Here's hoping it doesn't get lost in the bowels of the postal service for a month as has happened a couple of times before. I want to finish my socks! And [personal profile] koshka_the_cat working on her next swimsuit is intensifying my desire to work my 1930's one. I already wanted to work on it, but now I want to even more. Sock first, though, sock first. It won't take long since I'm already into the foot.

Ordered

Aug. 17th, 2023 05:55 pm
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The yarn to finish the 1921 bathing ensemble is on order. So is yarn for a 1930’s bathing suit that I found while looking at 1920’s patterns. I’m hoping it will be more flattering than the very unflattering 1939 suit I made a few years ago. I couldn’t quite decide what color of yarn to buy so I bought two colors and will use the one that doesn’t become a bathing suit for a sweater.

I was looking at the gauge of 7 st./in. on size US1 needles and the pattern seller’s note that the Minerva Shetland Floss was a 2-ply lace weight yarn and seeing a disconnect. You could get that gauge on those needles with that weight yarn, but you wouldn’t want to wear it as the only covering on your body. I looked for a sport weight yarn, because even fingering weight would be light at that gauge for a swimsuit - perfect for a sweater but not a swimsuit. I couldn’t find the same colors and didn’t like anything particularly so I decided I’ll try holding the yarn double. Here’s hoping that works. Otherwise I guess I bought yarn for two sweaters.
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I finished the main piece of the 1921 bathing suit.

1921 bathing suit

I still need to knit the trunks and finish the socks and figure out what goes on my head. I also want to try making boots to go with it like in the pattern illustration.

I basically crocheted it as given except that I knew I wanted it a size smaller than given so I started the decreases for the waist three rows early and did one extra row of decreases at the end. That worked out perfectly. It took a little more yarn than I had anticipated, but if I hadn't been just a little over the given gauge, I might have come in at the 9 balls called for by the pattern. Instead I used 9.75. The socks call for 2 but will need about 3. I had assumed 3 for the trunks, but they'll take 4.5. I used just over 4 balls of the yellow, when the combination of socks and suit called for 4. The socks definitely used less than 1 so the dress probably used close to 4.

The point of this project (other than making a 1920's bathing suit, of course) was to get more comfortable with crochet, and I achieved that purpose. I learned to hold the hook more loosely and got better at seeing stitches. I'm still not great at it, and I still don't much like the look of crochet so I don't think I'll be doing it a lot in the future. Still, I do think that when I get to the crochet part of the 1902 vest I'll be more comfortable and confident. Of course, it's actually got a pattern to it so it will be more difficult. And smaller. And slicker. I didn't say it would be easy. Fortunately, that's an undergarment so no one is likely to see it.
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I've gone as far as I can with the bathing socks. I am officially out of the blue yarn of the current dye lot. I'm saving the old yarn for the upper part of the trunks since they'll be hidden under the skirt of the bathing suit.

1921 bathing sock progress - 8/3/23

I finished the first sock on Monday before I even got on the plane. These socks are so much faster than either of my other current knitting projects - they start at 80 st/row while the Eleonora stockings started at 168 st/row and are still around 100 st/row at the ankle and the 1902 vest is 200 st/row. The bathing socks will actually come in at about 3 balls of yarn instead of 4 so I'm glad I got as far as I did before my coupon ordering window opens. I am trying really hard not to have a yarn stash.
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I finished the first bathing sock and started the second one. I’m through the hem and just starting the stripes. I think I have enough yarn to turn the heel, but then they’ll be on pause until I get more.

I do have the yarn I need to finish the main body of the bathing suit so I’m going to try to do that this week.

Seamed

Jul. 25th, 2023 05:21 am
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I finished crocheting the front of the bathing suit and sewed up the side seams. Now I just have to do the trim around the top edges. I'll do the one row of blue all the way around but save the yellow until next week. That will finish off the blue for the dress so I can use the rest of the ball for the socks.

I tried it on with the shoulders pinned, and it fits. It's rather baby-doll like, but that's how it looks in the illustration.
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I think I have a decent estimate of how much yarn I need now. I spent yesterday and today knitting away madly at the trunks and managed to finish one half.* Math should be good enough to estimate what I need for the rest of the dress. I cast on a sock and did the first three rows, but my left forefinger is sore from pushing the needle through the stitches on the trunks so I'm not going to knit any more today.

I used just over 4 balls on the back of the dress. Since it's 144 stitches wide and the front is 194 stitches wide, if we assume the back took 4.25 balls (it certainly didn't take more), then the front should take 5.75 balls. The trunks used just over 2 balls of yarn for one leg. The other leg is to be identical.

I looked up a couple of modern knee sock patterns on Ravelry that are knit on about the same size needles with sport-weight yarn, and they seem to need about 600 yards of yarn.

That means that I need ten balls for the dress, five for the trunks, and about four for the socks. I started off with fourteen so I need to buy five more. My coupon isn't good until mid-August so I'll work on the sock I cast on to see if I can get a better estimate by then.

*I mostly knit the trunk leg directly from an old Zouave bodice thing that I hated so the yarn was all kinked up. It looks rather awful so I'll be pulling it all out and straightening out the yarn and reknitting from scratch, but I learned what I needed to learn. That includes learning that the old yarn's dye lot is definitely different from the new yarn so I'll be using new balls to start each leg and switching to old yarn higher up.

Cast On

Jul. 21st, 2023 06:40 am
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I cast on the trunks for the 1921 bathing suit last night. I had intended to wait to start them until the Eleonora stockings were done, but then it started to become clear that I'm going to run out of yarn for the bathing suit. The yellow should be fine, but I'm going through blue rather faster than I expected. I'm sure I've got enough for the crocheted dress and probably enough for the trunks. I'll be shocked if I have enough for the socks. It seemed like a good idea to lay aside the Eleonora stockings for a bit and knit up what I can of the trunks and socks so that I can get to the point where I know how much yarn I need.

I have a coupon that's good in August so I'm hoping that I can get to that point fairly soon.
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I evidently spent too much time crocheting on Sunday because my hand was sore last night when I sat down to do my two rows. I only finished one of them. Fortunately, it's not sore for anything else. I'll just take it easy with the crochet until it feels normal again.

Fortunately, knitting didn't hurt so I finished another two repeats on my stocking which puts me halfway through the stocking and therefore three quarters of the way through the project.

Stripes

Jul. 17th, 2023 04:50 am
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I finished the stripes on the front of the swimsuit. In a dozen rows I get to start narrowing for the bodice.

Surprise

Jul. 10th, 2023 04:58 pm
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I finished the back of the swimsuit.

1921 bathing dress back

I started the front but am only three rows into it. I keep thinking - "ooh, I could finish by the end of the month" - and then I realize that even if I finish the main garment, there are still trunks and a pair of knee socks. I couldn't possibly finish all that by the end of the month.

Progress

Jul. 6th, 2023 08:29 pm
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I finished the stripes on the back of the 1921 bathing suit. In half a dozen rows, it will be time to start narrowing for the waist. Very exciting.

1821 Bathing Suit Progress - 7/6/23
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I've been trying to work down my stash the last couple of years. This year has not been so successful. I made the eyelet dress from stash materials, but then I bought fabric and embroidery threads for the Regency dress. I made that dress, but since I bought extra fabric with a couple of other small items in mind, it's not a net zero project from a stash perspective. I made the 1840's nightcap from stash materials but then bought yarn for the 1921 bathing suit. It should use up some leftovers from previous projects too, but if I overestimated what I need, it might leave the stash in worse shape. I made the 1876 dress from stash materials, but over the weekend I went to a fabric store with my mother and bought fabric for a 1940's dress. At least the 1876 dress used 11 or 12 yards (plus a ball of yarn!), and I bought 3.5. The Eleonora stockings and the 1902 vest are both from stash materials, but I bought yarn for a sweater when I bought yarn for the bathing suit. I also bought the materials for the "Street Scene" cross-stitch.

Here's hoping I can spend the rest of the year making the projects that I already have materials in hand for. Ideally next year too.
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The bathing suit is going surprisingly well. I’ve gotten past the first stripe so that’s ten rows in five days, which is twice as fast as I thought I’d go. An experienced crocheter would probably see a lack of uniformity in the tension, but it’s not obvious to me. I’m sure this will be an amateurish effort, but I’m enjoying it so far. That may just be because I want the 20’s bathing suit, and this is how I get it.

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