1900's Hat

Nov. 22nd, 2024 11:31 am
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I realized that I never posted about the 1900's hat I made earlier this year after I finished it. I got as far as putting pictures up on Flickr and then forgot about writing the actual post.

I took the Costume On 1900's hat class, and this is what came of it. Everything was supplied in the kit except for the roses and ribbons that trim it.

Early 1900’s Hat

It's a wire frame hat. The brim is covered with a densely woven plain-weave cotton and a fine net that is tucked on the underside and puffed on the top side. The brim is covered with a light braid. I'm very pleased with how it came out. Part of the class was making a bandeau to help it sit properly on the head, but when I went to figure out how to place it, I actually didn't want it. I put it with the rest of the millinery supplies, and perhaps I'll use it on a future project.

Early 1900’s Hat

Early 1900’s Hat

I learned some things in the class, particularly about bandeaux and common styles from the mid-1900's (decade, not century). I had made a wire-frame bonnet before so there wasn't really anything new there. The timing of the class left something to be desired. It was a three-hour class that began with a discussion of styles. By the halfway point we had only worked on our bandeaux. Then we took a short break and started the wire frames when we came back. With twenty minutes left in the class, we had the crowns but really hadn't started the brims. The instructor spent the last twenty minutes going through all the remaining steps required. There had been enough previews of coming steps earlier on that I was ahead on constructing the frame, and I did finish the class with a finished frame and finished bandeau. I was way ahead of the next student, who had started attaching the first brim wire. We were invited to come back to future sessions of the class for more assistance, but I did not do so. I was able to follow the rest of the instructions from my notes.

I went to the second session that the class was taught so it is entirely possible that any future sessions will have much better timing.

I wore the hat to Costume College with the 1908 eyelet dress that I only wore for a couple of hours last year before spilling my lunch on it.

1908 Eyelet Dress

1908 Eyelet Dress

Even though the brim is heavily biased toward the front, it was a fairly stable hat to wear. That was a pleasant surprise.
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I did a lot of needlework this year, but I didn’t make a lot of things. I liked the things I did make, but they were generally lengthier projects.

It was a much better year for events. There were several DFWCG events, and I went to Costume College. A friend and I even made our own mini-event where three of us dressed up, ate out, and went to a play.

This year’s projects behind the cut )

One of my goals for this year was to work from my stash. I was not nearly as successful as I was last year. The 1908 eyelet dress was all stash, but then the 1805 embroidered dress was all new materials. The 1876 dress was all stash, but the three bathing suits were all new materials except for a couple of balls of yarn. “Winter Lace” was stash, but “Street Scene” was new materials except for a few skeins of embroidery floss. The 1916 dress was stash, but the 1940’s dress was new materials. The stays, the nightcap, the vest, the Eleonora stockings, scarf, kerchief, skating cap, and flute décor were all from stash. The 1910’s purse materials were a combination of stash fabric and new threads. I bought wool fabrics for three dresses, wool yarns for two sweaters, and cotton yarn for a quilt that I haven’t started yet. I bought fabric and embroidery wools for an 18th century wallet. I bought some miscellaneous embroidery threads that don’t necessarily have a project planned. On the balance, I think that means that I had no net change to the fabric stash but increased the yarn and embroidery supplies I have. I shall have to try harder not to buy things in 2024.

Laundering

Aug. 2nd, 2023 10:06 am
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It took three washes, but all the mustard came out of my eyelet dress.

The next time a sandwich looks overfull I’ll knock some stuff off of it before attempting to eat it.
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I've been trying to work down my stash the last couple of years. This year has not been so successful. I made the eyelet dress from stash materials, but then I bought fabric and embroidery threads for the Regency dress. I made that dress, but since I bought extra fabric with a couple of other small items in mind, it's not a net zero project from a stash perspective. I made the 1840's nightcap from stash materials but then bought yarn for the 1921 bathing suit. It should use up some leftovers from previous projects too, but if I overestimated what I need, it might leave the stash in worse shape. I made the 1876 dress from stash materials, but over the weekend I went to a fabric store with my mother and bought fabric for a 1940's dress. At least the 1876 dress used 11 or 12 yards (plus a ball of yarn!), and I bought 3.5. The Eleonora stockings and the 1902 vest are both from stash materials, but I bought yarn for a sweater when I bought yarn for the bathing suit. I also bought the materials for the "Street Scene" cross-stitch.

Here's hoping I can spend the rest of the year making the projects that I already have materials in hand for. Ideally next year too.
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I got pictures of my 1908 eyelet dress. My mother-in-law took them over the weekend.

1908 Eyelet Dress

1908 Eyelet Dress

It's cotton eyelet with a pattern from The Edwardian Modiste scaled to my size. I really do like how the scaled patterns work. This one needed very little adjustment - it was really just about figuring out what seam allowances were given and which ones you had to add. Pieces were not given for the collar and sleeve bands so I had to make those up. It's the first truly well-fitted collar I've managed, which made me happy.

Purchase

Jan. 28th, 2023 07:58 am
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I have been really good about sewing from the stash for the last year, and I want to continue to be good about it. However, I succumbed to temptation and bought materials to make a c. 1805 Regency dress with lots of embroidery. I'm going to use the ramie voile from Burnley and Trowbridge and Appleton crewel wools. I bought one hank of each color because I had no real way to estimate what I would need. I'll do what I can with what I've got, and when I start running out, I should have a basis for how much more I need to order.

1805 Embroidered Dress Materials



I also bought a bunch of embroidery thread (standard DMC cotton) and a big piece of Aida for my next cross-stitching project. And [personal profile] nuranar bought a bunch of silk embroidery thread on my account at an estate sale. In my year in review, I neglected to mention that I bought some clearance silk embroidery threads in Williamsburg. It seems that I have embroidery in my future.

Speaking of the future, I finished the 1908 eyelet dress on Thursday and started a pair of the Bernhardt stays yesterday. I am planning to do a few days of knitting on the Eleonora stockings between each project (three pattern repeats last night!), but once the stays are finished, I'm going to start this Regency dress.
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I gave myself all of Sunday afternoon to be idle. That meant reading four short stories out of Mr. Mulliner Speaking and working on the 1908 eyelet dress. I made a lot of progress - the skirt is in one piece, the jumper bodice is assembled pending fitting, and the waist is well under way. I worked on the waist more last night so it just needs a collar and sleeves to be finished. It's actually a separate garment from the combined jumper and skirt, which it took a couple of readings of the pattern to realize. I may end up basting the two pieces together at the waistline if they don't want to cooperate.
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I’m starting a sewing project. Yes, sewing! Not knitting, not tatting, not cross-stitching, but actual sewing! It’s a 1908 summer frock made of eyelet. I’m using the pattern on page 236 of The Edwardian Modiste. I think it will be a pretty quick project, which will be nice after six months on the “Winter Lace” picture.

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