Mantua Pictures
Oct. 14th, 2016 08:49 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
atherleisureI was going to put the mantua on last night to take some pictures, but I decided I really didn't want to do that. I'll get good pictures at the picnic next month. I did go ahead and put it on the dummy, though, so I could get something to share out of a month's sewing.
The usual disclaimer that it fits me better than the dummy applies here. The dummy is also currently shorter than I am for reasons beyond me, which is why the petticoat is poofing out at the floor.
I also took some construction detail shots.
The skirt side seam which starts out with the seam allowance to the inside of the dress then switches to have the seam allowance on the outside of the dress.
The pleats in the front of the bodice that I ended up having to sew down, even though I really didn't want to. They ended up shallower than they should have done, which may be why they wanted to unfold.
The pleat stay inside the back between the shoulders. This is absolutely necessary to keep the pleats nice in the upper back and is in the Janet Arnold pattern of the Clive mantua and seems to be in the Kimberley mantua, though Norah Waugh doesn't include it in her pattern.
The back of the petticoat had to be pieced, but it's not too noticeable.
The whole thing took just about eight yards of fabric, even with cutting the back piece about 10" shorter than the Kimberley mantua. There's not a lot of scrap, maybe half a yard if the pieces were all laid together. I sewed the body of the gown by hand, but it was a tightly woven taffeta and a bit tough to sew so when I got to the sleeves and petticoat, I sewed what I could on the machine. The belt is a length of rayon grosgrain ribbon with a thread loop to hold the hooks that drape the skirt.
Many thanks to![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
isiswardrobe for her help and suggestions when I was planning the gown and stays.
The usual disclaimer that it fits me better than the dummy applies here. The dummy is also currently shorter than I am for reasons beyond me, which is why the petticoat is poofing out at the floor.
I also took some construction detail shots.
The skirt side seam which starts out with the seam allowance to the inside of the dress then switches to have the seam allowance on the outside of the dress.
The pleats in the front of the bodice that I ended up having to sew down, even though I really didn't want to. They ended up shallower than they should have done, which may be why they wanted to unfold.
The pleat stay inside the back between the shoulders. This is absolutely necessary to keep the pleats nice in the upper back and is in the Janet Arnold pattern of the Clive mantua and seems to be in the Kimberley mantua, though Norah Waugh doesn't include it in her pattern.
The back of the petticoat had to be pieced, but it's not too noticeable.
The whole thing took just about eight yards of fabric, even with cutting the back piece about 10" shorter than the Kimberley mantua. There's not a lot of scrap, maybe half a yard if the pieces were all laid together. I sewed the body of the gown by hand, but it was a tightly woven taffeta and a bit tough to sew so when I got to the sleeves and petticoat, I sewed what I could on the machine. The belt is a length of rayon grosgrain ribbon with a thread loop to hold the hooks that drape the skirt.
Many thanks to
isiswardrobe for her help and suggestions when I was planning the gown and stays.
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