1800's Rose Wool Pelisse
Mar. 21st, 2014 06:43 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
atherleisure1800’s Rose Wool Pelisse
The JASNA chapter in Williamsburg had an event the day after the George Washington Ball this year that a friend and I wanted to attend. Period attire was recommended, and I’m not one to pass on attending events in period costume. That being said, my only good Regency day dress is a navy voile which would be risky for early March weather. I didn’t really want to wear it with my wool cloak so I decided this was my opportunity to make a pelisse.
Materials:
3 ¼ yd rose wool twill (from Fabric.com)
1 ½ yd gold cotton sateen (from Denver Fabrics)
1 yd 1” cotton tape (from Burnley and Trowbridge)
Patterns:
I used the patterns for pelisses in Plate XXXIX of The Cut of Women’s Clothes by Norah Waugh and on pgs. 52-55 of Patterns of Fashion I: Englishwomen’s Dresses & Their Construction c. 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold as inspiration along with a fashion plate from Costume Parisien from 1809. I didn’t directly use either pattern but draped a bodice and cut the skirt by measure. The sleeve pattern is from the 1806-1809 dress in Patterns of Fashion and the hood is from the cloak in Costume Close-Up by Linda Baumgarten.
Construction:
The pelisse is made of a medium-weight rose-colored wool twill with bodice, hood, and sleeves lined with gold cotton sateen. The inside of the waistband is a cotton tape. It closes with hooks and eyes at the waist.
I used a combination of hand-sewing and machine-sewing. The bodice was all sewn by hand, and the hood was set by hand, but other interior construction seams are machine-sewn. The center back of the skirt was cartridge-pleated to the center back of the bodice.
Undergarments:
I wore this pelisse over my 1806-1809 navy voile dress and its associated undergarments.
Thoughts after wearing:
This coat was very easy to wear and quite satisfactory for a spring day. The weather cooperated for the event so that I didn’t really need it, but naturally, I wore it anyway. I’m one step closer to a complete Regency outfit. Perhaps next year I’ll manage to make a hat.
All the pelisses I looked at from the 1808-1815 time frame had some kind of decoration, whether it was trim around the edges or self-trim on the bodice or sleeve caps. At this time mine does not have any trim because I didn’t have anything in hand at the time that would work. Eventually, I’d like to add some trim around the edges and waistband, but I’m still pleased with the result for now. I’m sure there were plenty of plain ones out there – after all, fashion plates are only a guide, right?
The JASNA chapter in Williamsburg had an event the day after the George Washington Ball this year that a friend and I wanted to attend. Period attire was recommended, and I’m not one to pass on attending events in period costume. That being said, my only good Regency day dress is a navy voile which would be risky for early March weather. I didn’t really want to wear it with my wool cloak so I decided this was my opportunity to make a pelisse.
Materials:
3 ¼ yd rose wool twill (from Fabric.com)
1 ½ yd gold cotton sateen (from Denver Fabrics)
1 yd 1” cotton tape (from Burnley and Trowbridge)
Patterns:
I used the patterns for pelisses in Plate XXXIX of The Cut of Women’s Clothes by Norah Waugh and on pgs. 52-55 of Patterns of Fashion I: Englishwomen’s Dresses & Their Construction c. 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold as inspiration along with a fashion plate from Costume Parisien from 1809. I didn’t directly use either pattern but draped a bodice and cut the skirt by measure. The sleeve pattern is from the 1806-1809 dress in Patterns of Fashion and the hood is from the cloak in Costume Close-Up by Linda Baumgarten.
Construction:
The pelisse is made of a medium-weight rose-colored wool twill with bodice, hood, and sleeves lined with gold cotton sateen. The inside of the waistband is a cotton tape. It closes with hooks and eyes at the waist.
I used a combination of hand-sewing and machine-sewing. The bodice was all sewn by hand, and the hood was set by hand, but other interior construction seams are machine-sewn. The center back of the skirt was cartridge-pleated to the center back of the bodice.
Undergarments:
I wore this pelisse over my 1806-1809 navy voile dress and its associated undergarments.
Thoughts after wearing:
This coat was very easy to wear and quite satisfactory for a spring day. The weather cooperated for the event so that I didn’t really need it, but naturally, I wore it anyway. I’m one step closer to a complete Regency outfit. Perhaps next year I’ll manage to make a hat.
All the pelisses I looked at from the 1808-1815 time frame had some kind of decoration, whether it was trim around the edges or self-trim on the bodice or sleeve caps. At this time mine does not have any trim because I didn’t have anything in hand at the time that would work. Eventually, I’d like to add some trim around the edges and waistband, but I’m still pleased with the result for now. I’m sure there were plenty of plain ones out there – after all, fashion plates are only a guide, right?
