atherleisure: (reader)
I have a couple more pictures of the mantua I made last fall. I posted some construction and dummy pictures here. It was a lot of fun to wear.

DSC02836

DSC02840

Read more... )
I had so much fun wearing this dress. It's definitely an amusing style to wear.
atherleisure: (reader)
This ended up seeming to be a year of little pieces more than full garments, though I did make costumes from the skin out for the 1690's and 1910's. I did a lot of knitting this year. One of my goals for the year was to do better with my hair for events, and I think I succeeded. There were some hairdos that I was very proud of. I got to go to a lot of events in different periods and had some opportunities to wear things that I had never really gotten to wear. One of the best parts was getting to meet a couple of LJ friends in real life in July.

I finally made the Le Baiser dress I had been planning for years.
Le Baiser

The rest is behind the cut: )
atherleisure: (reader)
My stays are finished, and my husband took pictures today. They didn't come out with the greatest resolution, and I don't know why. Also the shift sleeves kind of block the view. I'm going to see if I can get Jen to take better pictures in November because I'm quite proud of my stays.

Late17th Early 18th Century Stays - Front

Late17th Early 18th Century Stays - Back

Late17th Early 18th Century Stays - Side

They're based on the c. 1680 stays in Corsets and Crinolines. I took about an inch out of the side pieces and shortened them at the back waist by about half an inch. I also adjusted the angle of the straps so that they would come over the shoulder instead of around the shoulder. That left a 2"-3" spring at the back.

The interior is made of two layers of cotton drill with machined boning channels 3/16" wide except for the center back which has wider channels. It's boned with 3mm flat oval reed except at the center back where I cut down 1/2" flat oval reed to fit the channels. The seam allowances are turned to the back and whipped down before the pieces are whipped together with fine whip-stitching. Then the back pieces were covered with silk brocade and the eyelets made. Then I covered the tabs before covering the front and sides. On the large pieces, I made sure to keep the stays well curved while pinning the brocade to allow a little extra fabric to account for not being under tension. The reed was nice because I could prick stitch through the bones and follow the edges of the fabric, even if they didn't end up exactly along the interior seam lines. The straps were the last thing covered with brocade. Then I lined the tabs individually with muslin with a fairly fine whip stitch. Finally, I lined the center front, sides, and straps to finish off the project.

The straight front is achieved with a wooden busk between the shift and stays. I need to make another one specifically for this because the 1820's one I've been using is a little wide and a little long. I want to curve this one a little so it will rest more against my breastbone and will look more like the ones in Seventeenth Century Women's Dress Patterns. I also need to let out the shift neckline since it doesn't look quite like I intended it to. I'm going to make the mantua first, though, so I can see how it looks with that.

The stays have taken awhile, but I'm really happy with them.
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished lining my stays last night so they are officially finished.

See?

1690's Stays - Inside

I'll try to get pictures of them on me in the next couple of days.
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished covering my stays!

Late 17th Century Stays

The wrinkles in the brocade disappear for the most part when the stays are on the body (as shown in a recent post).

Late 17th Century Stays - inside unlined

Next is lining them. My goal for tonight is to finish half of the tabs.
atherleisure: (reader)
I think I need a to-do list for all the projects that are scattered around here. There are far more UFO's than there probably should be.

1. 1690’s stays: Finish covering, make eyelets for straps, cut and sew in lining
2. 1830’s plain petticoat: Prep waistband and set waist
3. 1830’s tucked petticoat: Prep waistband, finish tucks (4 down/5 to go), and set waist
4. 1610’s petticoat: Reset waist
5. 1950’s turquoise dress: Shorten hem by 9”
6. 18th century cap: Everything – listed more to remember that it’s there than anything else
7. 1860 rigolette: Make 127 ½” pom-pons
8. 1912 vest: Order yarn and finish, but I’m still ignoring it because I’m not ready to order any other yarn at present and refuse to order the yarn and pay shipping for one ball of yarn
9. Pineapple bag: Just keep knitting
10. 1892 Zouave: Cast on so I can have some blind knitting for when I'm reading

Yesterday I tore apart the Tiana dress I made for my daughter a few years ago. I'm saving the other princess costumes (except the first Sleeping Beauty dress that wore out), but they never liked playing with this one because it was a really heavy dress.

S2330 - Tiana

I've always liked the gold sateen in the dress, though, so I tore the dress apart to rescue it. It's earmarked for the outer layer of a two-layer corset whenever I make another Victorian/Edwardian corset. I suppose I should be proud of myself; I also took the trim from a ridiculously heavy corset cover I made in college and recycled it for my 1918 combinations this spring.

Unbound

Aug. 15th, 2016 01:26 pm
atherleisure: (reader)
I've been looking at my inspiration stays, and I don't see any binding.



I really do think this is a set of stays rather than a boned bodice due to the straps. The picture doesn't zoom all that far, but I don't see any signs of binding. It looks like the silk is wrapped around to the back and the lining turned under and whipped down along the edges. It sounds like that's the way they did the reproduction described here. There's no mention of binding, but everything else is mentioned.

Binding was used on the stays in 17th Century Women's Dress Patterns, but I guess it wasn't used on the Plymouth ones or these in the Met. I know it would make them sturdier and longer-lasting, but honestly, how much am I going to wear a pair of late 17th century or early 18th century stays?

Suddenly, my stays are much closer to completion than I had expected!

Two Points

Aug. 13th, 2016 08:50 am
atherleisure: (reader)
1. Pushing the busk from the 1820's stays between the 1690's stays and my smock solved my center front boning problem. It's almost exactly the right length too so I might not need to get/make a new busk.

2. I assembled my knitted rigolette from an 1860 pattern except for the pom-poms. I'm calling it 60% complete because there are a lot of pom-poms. I'm having trouble getting excited about making about 150 pom-poms. That's a lot of pom-poms.

1860 Rigolette verify velvet balls

1860 Rigolette before velvet balls
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished the eyelets in my stays so I was able to try them on.




The fit seems to be pretty good, but I think I may need to strengthen the boning in the center front a bit. The 3mm reed is very flexible, and I think I might need to put a couple of 1/2" pieces right at the center front. (Yes, the mixing of units is obnoxious, but that's how it was sold so it's how I think of it.)

I only cut half the tabs for the try-on, but I'll do the others now that I know they fit and can start covering tabs.
atherleisure: (reader)
My late 17th century smock or shift (I'm not sure when the terminology shifted - pun intended!) is finished. It's all hand-sewn and somewhat speculative since I couldn't really find any extant examples in my searches. Perhaps I didn't search long enough, but I don't care at this point because it's done!

It's hand-sewn from a lightweight linen-cotton blend and is sort of a cross between a Portuguese smock in Patterns of Fashion 4 and the 1750's smock pattern on Sharon Burnston's shift research pages with a big ruffle added to the neckline.

I might get good pictures of it on me once I finish the stays, but it just looked ridiculous when I tried it on. I may end up cutting down the neck ruffle a bit if garments over it don't squash it down a bit.

The neckline is big enough for me to wear it off the shoulder for c. 1660's dresses...

Late 17th Century Smock - Off-the-shoulder for 1660's

More pictures... )

It was satisfying, but I'm glad I'm finished with it and onto the stays.

Speaking of stays, they progress.

1690's stays progress - 8/4/16
atherleisure: (reader)
My 1690's/1700's stays are boned. The picture doesn't look much different from last time, but here it is.

1690's Stays - Boned Panels

Next up will be sewing them together, but I think I'll do some more knitting first. I've almost gotten to the point I had to rip back from on my pineapple. Another way to put it is that I've nearly gotten to the point of the first set of knobs.
atherleisure: (reader)
I've got all the boning channels sewn in my 1690's/1700's stays!

1690's Stays

Not that you can see it in the picture - white on natural doesn't really show up very well. I machined all the boning channels because I may enjoy hand-sewing, but not enough to do about 200 boning channels that will be sandwiched between an outer fabric and a lining. Nope. Not at all. It took my spare time for most of three days to do it on the machine; I really didn't want to dedicate the next three months to it.

Now I've started boning, and I've got a question for those who have boned stays with reed before. If you break a reed while inserting it, and it breaks off right at the end of the channel, how do you get it back out? [livejournal.com profile] nuranar? [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat? I got lots of information from [livejournal.com profile] nuranar's journal (particularly comments from [livejournal.com profile] the_aristocat), but I don't remember that being mentioned. I love the way they're looking, but I need to quit for the day; my thumb and forefinger have had enough abuse for one day! Another question is about doing the eyelets. When I put in eyelets, I generally seem to mangle the fabric about when pushing the awl through. Steel and plastic take it in stride, but I'm not sure the reed will. Does anyone have any tips?

In other news, my poor neglected pineapple is growing again, and I'm about half-finished with the leaves. I gave up waiting for knitting inspiration that would require new yarn and ordered more yarn for my 1912 vest. Supposedly, it will arrive this afternoon. On the flip side, the things that I came up with that I'd like to knit next can be made from leftovers from other projects so that's always a bonus. I also ordered some false hair to make a hairpiece with, but it was definitely not the strawberry blonde it claimed to be; dark auburn is more like it. It went back in the mail the same day it arrived.

The final bit of progress was finishing up a fichu that I cut out a few weeks ago. Now I get a break from rolled hems and whipped gathers for a bit. Somehow I seem to keep getting back to those. They may be slow, but they look so nice when they're done. I'll probably pick up the cap next week so it won't be that long a break from rolled hems and whipped gathers.
atherleisure: (reader)
When I bought my ticket to the DFWCG's Costumers' Lost Weekend, I was expecting something like a smaller version of Dress U since that's what it looked like it has been in the past. They changed the format up this year, and it was basically sewing time. I think there was a theme of "Undressed," but I'm not sure how much the theme was followed, and that includes by me.

So I tried to think about what good projects would be and came up with these goals for the weekend.
1. Get a pattern fitted for c. 1700 stays.
2. Get a pattern fitted for the bodice of my 1897 Harper's Bazar dress.
3. Possibly cut out my 1897 dress.
4. Work on my pineapple.

The results of the weekend were
1. I have a fitted pattern for c. 1700 stays.
2. I have a fitted pattern for the 1897 dress' bodice and sleeve linings.
3. I knit a couple of rows of the pineapple.
4. I made all of a little Regency shortgown except for setting half a sleeve.

Needless to say, I finished up the last bit of the shortgown last night so it's off the list. Now I'll need to get worked up enough to put on stays and things to take pictures of the shortgown and petticoat. I also need to take pictures of the 1916 dress so I'm a bit in arrears on pictures.

Now I'll probably spend the next week working on a little project for an aunt and knitting on my pineapple. I think I'm going to focus on it until the leaves are finished. Then I can start on the stays in earnest.

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