Moving Along

[atherleisure]

Explain to me why I just made an ivory silk 18th century petticoat and cut a matching bodice when I have two 1780's dresses that have never been worn. I was excited about Victorian costuming opportunities upon moving to Texas, but here I am still stuck in the 18th century. I guess I've been making plans for that period for so long that I can't get it out of my system yet.

I think the next thing I want to do is 1610's, but I really need to do a lot more reading before I start that. I'm not even quite sure what layers I need. I see lots of Tudor information, but Stuart seems to be less prevalent. There's a painting of a girl in a shift and kirtle that's dated 1612/1620 that I like, and I'm hoping I can do something like that with a jacket over it. I really don't want to make stays for it. Any suggestions?

(ETA link to the picture I mentioned.)

Comments

[atherleisure.livejournal.com]

I'm not really trying to go Italian, though I know the picture I linked is Italian. The picture, though, looks a lot like the garments people use for 1570's and '80's for English reenactments and a lot like the garments in The Tudor Tailor, just with a much less full shift. I know the higher waistline will be in England by the end of the 1610's or early 1620's.

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

As early as 1569, you see the peasant class/lower class wearing stays:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png

What I think you might be seeing at re-enactments is the Flemish style - which was popular in England in the late 16th century. I'm really not sure though. I've never bothered with The Tudor Tailor since it seemed to me to just be a re-write of Janet Arnold's books.

The higher waistline does come into play in the 1610's/1620's - which is normally my cut off point for research since the style has changed too dramatically to be considered for the SCA- but they were still wearing stays. Of course, if you aren't entering this in a competition or wearing it as a re-enactor, wearing a boned Italian kirtle with the jacket is fine. However, I'd suggest making stays - they do NOT have to be the super channeled crazy ones that will make you go blind. One of the best pair of bodies I ever had (until I utterly destroyed them) only had boning at the front opening. The rest had two layers of heavy canvas between the linen lining and linen outer fabric. You can see the full outfit here (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/15685681/in/album/434755).

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/15685681/in/album/434755

I wrote a long post but it apparently got lost! Above is my late 16th Century English Peasant outfit. The pair of bodies I'm wearing only have boning at the front lacing part. The rest is inner lined with two layers of canvas. The outer fabric is linen and the inner fabric is linen as well. These lasted me years before I finally had to get rid of them because I sewed up the eyelets wrong. (The eyelets ripped).

You don't have to do a full channeled pair of bodies - ones like I've done work perfectly fine.