As early as 1569, you see the peasant class/lower class wearing stays: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png
What I think you might be seeing at re-enactments is the Flemish style - which was popular in England in the late 16th century. I'm really not sure though. I've never bothered with The Tudor Tailor since it seemed to me to just be a re-write of Janet Arnold's books.
The higher waistline does come into play in the 1610's/1620's - which is normally my cut off point for research since the style has changed too dramatically to be considered for the SCA- but they were still wearing stays. Of course, if you aren't entering this in a competition or wearing it as a re-enactor, wearing a boned Italian kirtle with the jacket is fine. However, I'd suggest making stays - they do NOT have to be the super channeled crazy ones that will make you go blind. One of the best pair of bodies I ever had (until I utterly destroyed them) only had boning at the front opening. The rest had two layers of heavy canvas between the linen lining and linen outer fabric. You can see the full outfit here (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/15685681/in/album/434755).
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https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png
What I think you might be seeing at re-enactments is the Flemish style - which was popular in England in the late 16th century. I'm really not sure though. I've never bothered with The Tudor Tailor since it seemed to me to just be a re-write of Janet Arnold's books.
The higher waistline does come into play in the 1610's/1620's - which is normally my cut off point for research since the style has changed too dramatically to be considered for the SCA- but they were still wearing stays. Of course, if you aren't entering this in a competition or wearing it as a re-enactor, wearing a boned Italian kirtle with the jacket is fine. However, I'd suggest making stays - they do NOT have to be the super channeled crazy ones that will make you go blind. One of the best pair of bodies I ever had (until I utterly destroyed them) only had boning at the front opening. The rest had two layers of heavy canvas between the linen lining and linen outer fabric. You can see the full outfit here (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/15685681/in/album/434755).