atherleisure (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
atherleisure) wrote2020-04-02 04:39 pm
atherleisure) wrote2020-04-02 04:39 pm
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1890's Checked Dress
I finished a new 1897 dress a couple of weeks ago. It's a gold and indigo checked silk taffeta, lined with tan cotton broadcloth and has a velvet ribbon belt. I got the buckle for the belt at Costume College last summer. It also gave me a place to use the tatting I made last summer on the collar.
The design is based on a pattern from Ageless Patterns, but I didn't buy their pattern. I already had a fitted bodice, sleeve, and skirt for the period so it would have been buying the pattern just for the pleated bodice and sleeve pieces. It didn't seem worth it.
The bodice lining was made up and boned, and then a pleated layer of silk was draped over it. The pleats are basted down underneath to keep things in place. Then there's a pleated layer of silk caught into the bodice seams at the right side that hooks in place on the left shoulder. The back side of the pleats are tacked to a tape to keep them in place. The waist is bound with ribbon, and there's an inside belt of cotton tape.
The sleeves are made up plain and faced with a bias strip of silk at the wrist. Another piece of silk was pleated and made into a loose oversleeve. I didn't tack those pleats to a tape since I was afraid it would show as the arm moved around. If it is inclined come unpleated and stick out, I will add tapes later.
The collar is a bias strip steamed and stretched into an arc. It is the closest fitting high collar I've ever made. The strip of lace was just long enough, which was a pleasant surprise since I actually made it intending to put it on a lower collar that had an open inch at the neck.
I tried lining the skirt with organdy, but that was a disaster. I took it back out, and it fell beautifully. This time I just faced the hem with a straight strip of broadcloth - no stiff facing, no inside ruffle. It was falling very nicely as it was. It is the right length, but in the grass it looks a little long. I put two jewelry clasps and jump rings at the back of the skirt to hold the folds in position. It worked really well - at least for trying it on and taking pictures. I don't know yet how that will be for wearing.
Last but not least, here's the inspiration image.
All pictures were taken by Sue Burbage.
The design is based on a pattern from Ageless Patterns, but I didn't buy their pattern. I already had a fitted bodice, sleeve, and skirt for the period so it would have been buying the pattern just for the pleated bodice and sleeve pieces. It didn't seem worth it.
The bodice lining was made up and boned, and then a pleated layer of silk was draped over it. The pleats are basted down underneath to keep things in place. Then there's a pleated layer of silk caught into the bodice seams at the right side that hooks in place on the left shoulder. The back side of the pleats are tacked to a tape to keep them in place. The waist is bound with ribbon, and there's an inside belt of cotton tape.
The sleeves are made up plain and faced with a bias strip of silk at the wrist. Another piece of silk was pleated and made into a loose oversleeve. I didn't tack those pleats to a tape since I was afraid it would show as the arm moved around. If it is inclined come unpleated and stick out, I will add tapes later.
The collar is a bias strip steamed and stretched into an arc. It is the closest fitting high collar I've ever made. The strip of lace was just long enough, which was a pleasant surprise since I actually made it intending to put it on a lower collar that had an open inch at the neck.
I tried lining the skirt with organdy, but that was a disaster. I took it back out, and it fell beautifully. This time I just faced the hem with a straight strip of broadcloth - no stiff facing, no inside ruffle. It was falling very nicely as it was. It is the right length, but in the grass it looks a little long. I put two jewelry clasps and jump rings at the back of the skirt to hold the folds in position. It worked really well - at least for trying it on and taking pictures. I don't know yet how that will be for wearing.
Last but not least, here's the inspiration image.
All pictures were taken by Sue Burbage.