atherleisure: (Default)
I have pictures of the mid-1830's bonnet I made recently.  You can also see the chemisette, more or less.


It's based on Butterick 3805, View D with the brim modified to bring it lower and a bit smaller. I completely ignored the instructions; I'm not sure I ever even read them. It's a buckram and wire frame covered with flannel and silk. The outer fabric is a shantung, but the brim lining and trim are taffetas. The ribbon inside the brim is just pinned in because I wanted to see how it did with 1830's hair before I actually stitched it down. I'll need to do that before I forget about it.

I don't think I quite got the feel of the curls pinned across the forehead right, but I can't see how else to do it. I expect it's a function of having a high forehead exacerbated by having negligible hair-styling skills.  I also found that if the knot of hair on the back of my head is not high enough, the bonnet tends to slip backward.  After an hour of pulling my bonnet back into place every few minutes, I redid the knot and didn't have any more problems. 


Mar. 19th, 2017 07:23 am
atherleisure: (reader)
I made up the bulk of a fontange/commode headdress to go with my 1690's/1700's mantua last fall using the information here, but I really wasn't happy with it because it wouldn't stand up very straight at all. When I didn't wear the mantua to the Georgian picnic in Dallas in November, I put the fontange away for a bit. Last weekend I finally had the chance to wear the mantua so I finally got around to fixing the fontange.

Construction information )
1690's Fontange - Front

1690s Fontange - Side

1690s Fontange - Back

For the next time, I think I'm going to tack the pleats together at the top since it had a tendency to fan out a bit.

One thing that I hadn't foreseen is that it tends to bob when you nod your head. I guess nodding wasn't much of a thing then - that or waving linen and lace was common!
atherleisure: (reader)
I altered the mock-up of my 1830's bonnet by modifying the brim. I shifted the seamline at the bottom up by about 1.5" and trimmed off about 0.5" around the edges, tapering to nothing before getting to the bottom of the curve. Now the brim is much more reasonably sized - big, but not enormous. It felt a bit too ridiculous before, even more ridiculous than the fashion plates.

Now I've got it cut out and wired and the buckram structure assembled and used [ profile] mandie_rw's scheme of using miscellaneous bits for the binding over the wires.

Mid-1830's Bonnet Form - Front

Mid-1830's Bonnet Form - Side

I started putting the flannel on last night but didn't finish because I took time out to make a shawl for my daughter. It was good to get the fabric for the shawl out of my stash.
atherleisure: (reader)
I need a bonnet for a couple of 1830's events coming up in the next couple of months. I want something like this:

or this:

The first is 1836, and the second is 1835. Neither shows the back.

This one dated 1837 does:

I'm going for about 1835.

Obviously the 1837 one does not allow for hair pulled up and looped on top of the head, but I see examples of a knot that is high but not on top of the head that are dated to about 1835 so that's what I'm planning to do.

I cut out a paper mock-up of the bonnet in view D of Butterick 3805.

The following are pictures taken with my hair high at the back of my head with a bit of a loop sticking up. I didn't take pictures of the hair, but I felt that it was positioned right where period pictures and fashion plates show it being positioned for the loop-on-head fashion.

These pictures were taken with the bonnet resting where it wanted to rest over my hair.

It struck me as having a similar brim profile to this picture, if it were wired:


These pictures were taken with my hair in a knot at the top of the back of my head rather than on top of my head.

I think it's better than I was expecting. I think I need to cut down the brim some at the sides but lengthen it a touch so it comes down more toward my chin.

What do those of you who have studied the 1830's more than I have think?
atherleisure: (reader)
The only specific event I have set to sew for is the Battle of San Jacinto in April. I've done most of the underwear and have started on underwear for one of my daughters who wants to go to costume events with me. I need to make her a petticoat and a dress, and I need sleeve supports (or stupid puffers as [ profile] mandie_rw calls them) and a dress for myself. I also want a bonnet for myself. I had been planning to get the Miller's Millinery 1819-1834 fashionable bonnet pattern, but I realized a couple of days ago that I bought the Butterick 3805 bonnet pattern several years ago.

The 1830's is not my forte so I thought I'd ask those who have done 1830's more than I what they think of it. Is this a reasonable bonnet shape? The goal is c. 1834-1835 and not terribly fashionable but not drab and poverty-stricken. I can't find any pictures of any bonnets made from this pattern - only reviews of two other views on and a comment on that the bonnet view is probably the best of the views. That's not much.

Any thoughts?
atherleisure: (reader)
This ended up seeming to be a year of little pieces more than full garments, though I did make costumes from the skin out for the 1690's and 1910's. I did a lot of knitting this year. One of my goals for the year was to do better with my hair for events, and I think I succeeded. There were some hairdos that I was very proud of. I got to go to a lot of events in different periods and had some opportunities to wear things that I had never really gotten to wear. One of the best parts was getting to meet a couple of LJ friends in real life in July.

I finally made the Le Baiser dress I had been planning for years.
Le Baiser

The rest is behind the cut: )
atherleisure: (reader)
I was so pleased the other day when I finished wiring my fontange and thought it was complete.

Late 17th Century Fontange

Nope. It wire is too heavy and pulls the whole thing down. I know it's supposed to tip forward quite a bit, but it's not supposed to lay flat on the top of my head so I need to figure out how to fix it.

The tutorial I followed didn't address this issue, and it used 16 gauge wire so my 19 gauge wire should be lighter weight than the tutorial! Either I need a hairstyle that is very solid in front of the headdress or I need to do something different. I think they're supposed to be made of wire so switching to reeds for stiffening sounds like the wrong answer. The only other alternative I can think of is to poke the wires out the bottom and bend them so that I can pin them under the cap.

Any suggestions?


Mar. 6th, 2016 12:00 pm
atherleisure: (reader)
Our March HARS event was a tea yesterday afternoon. It was a very nice time. The Grahams seem to be becoming regulars at the events, which is great because they're awfully nice people. Megan, who first came to our Rienzi outing, was there, and she had made herself a costume in a beautiful shade of green. We even had two new people - Kayla who came in 1780's and her husband Juan. Kayla evidently knows some people in Dallas, but she just moved here a few months ago. I'm glad she found us already because she seems quite nice. It was an extraordinary event when 43% of the participants had (natural) red hair. That just doesn't happen outside of family reunions.

The only pictures I have are some that Martha took of my new bonnet and spencer, but I saw Greg take several pictures so I hope some of them will be posted to the Facebook page, if nowhere else.

Next up will be archery in April.

1800's Bonnet and Spencer

1800's Bonnet and Spencer - back

1806 Bonnet

I put my spencer on in a hurry and didn't realize that it ended up shifted back a bit - so the back neck should be a little higher and the front neck a little lower than it is in these pictures. Then it would look more normal.
atherleisure: (reader)
1. I finished my bonnet for the tea Saturday. It came out well, and I'm going to ask Kaycee to take pictures of it at the tea. She's usually quite obliging, and she takes excellent pictures.

2. Speaking of excellent pictures, I'm very lucky to know people who are willing to take good pictures of my work since I'm a lousy photographer. So thanks to [ profile] jenthompson, Kaycee, and Liz. Speaking of Liz, I've got some pictures she took the last time we were in Williamsburg that I want to share. They're the first good pictures of my curtain-along sacque.

3. I made an adjustment to the ribbon corset mock-up, and I'm happy with it. I have all the materials so I'm ready to go with it. I don't think it will be my next project, but it needs to stay near the top of the list.

4. Last night I made the changes to the paper pattern for the 1910's corset pattern that I mocked up a bit ago. I have all the materials for it so I should be starting on it shortly. (Unless it counts as already started because I've already knit a few inches of lace for it!)

5. I've scaled up a pattern draft from 1918 for combination underwear so I'll probably work on that in parallel with the 1910's corset.

6. My new 18th century mitts are progressing. I've gotten to the wrist of the first one and have started widening for the hand.

7. I still haven't gotten around to taking pictures of the petticoat with the knitted lace or the 1870's dress. I have high hopes of doing so this weekend.

Tonight is the girls' school program so I don't know whether I'll get much time to sew, but I'm hoping to find time to cut out the combinations and block the lace I've knit so far. Then I'll be able to estimate how many pattern repeats of lace I'll need for the corset.
atherleisure: (reader)
The supplies for my c. 1904 ribbon corset and 1910's corset have arrived. I want to make a couple of changes to the ribbon corset mock-up before saying the pattern is done, and I need to mark the pattern for the 1910's corset with the changes I made. Then they're ready to go. I've also scaled up a combination undergarment pattern from 1918 so it's ready to go too.

But not yet.

There's a Houston Area Regency Society tea a week from Saturday, and I have the materials for a bonnet to match my new spencer. I'm hoping I'll be able to have it finished by then. I've cut and wired the frame and sewn the tip to the crown sides, and I'm hoping to have the mull layer on at least the brim by the end of my sewing time tonight. Actually, I'm hoping to have the whole mull layer done, which will leave me five days for covering the bonnet and doing whatever rudimentary trim I find myself capable of. Trimming bonnets is really not my strong point. Actually, designing trim period is really not my strong point. I'm just not artistic enough. I think there's a level of artistry required for millinery that I simply am not capable of. It's not how my mind works.
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished trimming my bonnet last night so it's done. It's wired buckram covered with flannel and wool felt, lined with silk taffeta, bound with silk ribbon, trimmed with velvet ribbon and a feather spray. I think it turned out fairly nicely and with plenty of room for hair in the back. It will probably need to be pinned on, but that's reasonable.

Late 1880's Bonnet - Front

Late 1880's Bonnet - Right Side

Late 1880's Bonnet - Left Side
atherleisure: (reader)
Obviously I'm not that excited about the lace I'm knitting because I started another pinball today. What can I say? They're the epitome of portability.

This one will have a ship on the front and crowns and initials on the back. Crowns seemed to go with ships - "royal navy" and all. Originals that it will be based on: front and back. Okay, the back is actually based on a cross-stitch pattern that's supposed to be based on a knitted original. I've seen patterns on originals that had a similar feel so it should do nicely.

I do want the lace for a petticoat, but I'm not that interested in making the petticoat right now and the ball of thread is actually quite big, maybe 4" in diameter. I did test out that I can knit it while riding in the car so I'm not completely abandoning it for the present. (Though the 1930's sweater seems to be falling by the wayside. I did what? 3 rows?)

UPS is supposed to deliver my copy of The Tudor Tailor tomorrow so I'll get back to the whole 1610's thing soon. For now, I think I'll be making a smock, petticoat with upperbodies, jacket, and some kind of cap. After I review the book, I'll probably have some specific questions. (Actually, I have some specific questions now, but the book may address at least some of them. I don't remember all the details from when I read it before since at that time this stuff was still in the "I want to make this at some point but don't really have any place to wear it" category.)

In the meantime I've been discovering that trimming bonnets requires a level of artistry that I do not have. I am the first one to admit that I am not even remotely artistic. I am a technician, and that's fine by me. Building the bonnet base and covering it - okay. Decorating it - the pits. I'm still hoping to finish it up this week, but the trimming is irritating me.
atherleisure: (reader)
I feel that I'm getting a better idea of where I need to go with the whole 1610's outfit, though I know I still have a lot to learn. Questions, questions. [ profile] reine_de_coudre is being very helpful; I'm so glad I'm on her friends list.

In the meantime, I haven't really done any sewing in the last couple of days because I've been reading so much. So this morning I made the upper part of my last 1890's petticoat and worked out what I want to do with headwear to go with my 1886 navy faille dress. I'm going to make a bonnet along the lines of this one at the Met. The best thing about it is that the shape is the same as the base of my 1868 bonnet that I made last winter, just rotated 180 degrees. So I pulled out all the supplies for it, cut out the buckram, sewed the darts, and started wiring it. Wiring it by machine was NOT working, so I abandoned that and will wire it by hand tonight.

But first I need to take the children swimming. I really don't want to, but being a mother isn't about what you want to do.
atherleisure: (reader)
Last weekend I made a bonnet to go with my new dress. I used a Timely Tresses pattern with slight modifications to the brim to make it what I wanted.

1800s Bonnet - Front

1800s Bonnet - Side

I realized after the fact that it matches my muff. I didn't even realize I was doing it at the time, which amused me quite a bit.

Copper Silk Bonnet and Muff

Now I've realized that I should make a new reticule because my other one is ridiculously small. Really. It won't even hold my keys and camera (though why I bother taking a camera I'll never know since I hardly ever remember to take any pictures with it).


Jan. 6th, 2015 04:44 pm
atherleisure: (1868)
I finished a bonnet based on a fashion plate from the November 28, 1868 issue of Harper's Bazar as reprinted in Reconstruction Era Fashions. I followed the description of the work and used the instructions from an issue of that same magazine in May of that year. It didn't come out looking quite like the illustration, but I hope it will suffice. Without further ado, here are pictures.

1868 Stuart Bonnet - Front

1868 Stuart Bonnet - Side

1868 Stuart Bonnet - Back

I omitted the violet feather, feeling that there was already enough to it. Besides, I didn't have a good feather on hand and don't like violet anyway. Since I'm hoping to wear it this weekend and I won't have appropriate silk ribbons in time, I've temporarily got shiny polyester ones on it. I'll replace them as soon as the silk ones arrive, though it will probably be after this weekend.


atherleisure: (Default)

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