atherleisure: (reader)
This ended up seeming to be a year of little pieces more than full garments, though I did make costumes from the skin out for the 1690's and 1910's. I did a lot of knitting this year. One of my goals for the year was to do better with my hair for events, and I think I succeeded. There were some hairdos that I was very proud of. I got to go to a lot of events in different periods and had some opportunities to wear things that I had never really gotten to wear. One of the best parts was getting to meet a couple of LJ friends in real life in July.

I finally made the Le Baiser dress I had been planning for years.
Le Baiser

The rest is behind the cut: )
atherleisure: (reader)
I finally took pictures! I've got the lace-trimmed petticoat and the 1870's Le Baiser dress.

Boring thing first: the petticoat
The upper part of the petticoat is from a pattern in Fashions of the Gilded Age The bottom is a flounce three yards in circumference. I found a museum piece* with nine ~1/4" tucks and an eyelet edging and used that as my inspiration for the flounce. Mine has hand-knit lace instead of eyelet.

Petticoat with Tucks and Lace - Front

For reasons that I have completely forgotten, I put ties on the waist of this petticoat instead of a button and buttonhole. I got it from somewhere, but I really do not remember where. It's a little annoying to do up but not terrible.

Anyway, I figure it's appropriate for not only the natural form period when the pattern was published but also the years after the turn of the twentieth century. I think it will be appropriate as far into the 20th century as hems brushed the floor.

It makes me happy because I have a petticoat with hand-knit lace. Not only hand-knit lace, but hand-knit lace from a period pattern. That definitely makes me feel good about my costuming self.

*I tried to link to the webpage in the Met instead of Pinterest, but the Met site kept giving me errors so you get a Pinterest link.
atherleisure: (reader)
1. I finished my bonnet for the tea Saturday. It came out well, and I'm going to ask Kaycee to take pictures of it at the tea. She's usually quite obliging, and she takes excellent pictures.

2. Speaking of excellent pictures, I'm very lucky to know people who are willing to take good pictures of my work since I'm a lousy photographer. So thanks to [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson, Kaycee, and Liz. Speaking of Liz, I've got some pictures she took the last time we were in Williamsburg that I want to share. They're the first good pictures of my curtain-along sacque.

3. I made an adjustment to the ribbon corset mock-up, and I'm happy with it. I have all the materials so I'm ready to go with it. I don't think it will be my next project, but it needs to stay near the top of the list.

4. Last night I made the changes to the paper pattern for the 1910's corset pattern that I mocked up a bit ago. I have all the materials for it so I should be starting on it shortly. (Unless it counts as already started because I've already knit a few inches of lace for it!)

5. I've scaled up a pattern draft from 1918 for combination underwear so I'll probably work on that in parallel with the 1910's corset.

6. My new 18th century mitts are progressing. I've gotten to the wrist of the first one and have started widening for the hand.

7. I still haven't gotten around to taking pictures of the petticoat with the knitted lace or the 1870's dress. I have high hopes of doing so this weekend.

Tonight is the girls' school program so I don't know whether I'll get much time to sew, but I'm hoping to find time to cut out the combinations and block the lace I've knit so far. Then I'll be able to estimate how many pattern repeats of lace I'll need for the corset.
atherleisure: (reader)
The Le Baiser dress is finished...I think. I need to put it on and make sure, but I think it's finished. I need to put it on to get pictures too. Then I need to find an event to wear it to.

The last bits finished were the collar and cuffs, which is as it should be, right?

"Le Baiser" Collar and Cuffs

Now I'm working on finishing a late 19th century petticoat - the one with the knitted lace. I'm making up the flounce, and I've finished the tucks and am about halfway through whipping on the lace. Then I'll just need to sew the flounce to the main body of the petticoat, and I'll be finished with my 1890's underwear. Then I'll be down to just my mitts in progress. That won't last long, but I haven't quite decided what my next project will be.

Petticoat Flounce

About a week and a half ago I went to an "Antebellum Tea." I met up with some local costuming acquaintances there who were kind enough to invite me, knowing that it was close to my house and that I've done a range of periods of costume. Richard was kind enough to take a picture of me with all my winter woolies.

1860's Winter Woolens

Knowing that this was put on by some reenactors, I was a little concerned about going since I didn't know much about the crowd. For instance, would they look down upon me for not having truly period-correct glasses? Would they remark on the fact that my skirt's a trifle short because I really wanted to wear my button boots with their 1.5" heel rather than the shoes I hemmed it for, which only have about a 1/2" heel? It turns out that they're not overly particular, and I suffered no ill comments and perceived no deprecating stares. People were very complimentary of my sontag, and I think overall I was well-dressed for the event. And I got to wear my lovely wool 1860's dress. I love that fabric.
atherleisure: (reader)
I have three yards of hand-knit lace!

1880's Lace

It took 82 repeats of the pattern and something on the order of 500 yards of thread.

Now I guess I'll have to make up the flounce for the petticoat so I can finish my oldest UFO (started in August).

In other news, I started knitting new 18th century mitts and found that I apparently didn't fix the pattern the first time I made them. They were awfully big, even going down a couple of needle sizes so I ripped it all out and started over again. I guess I should fix that pattern...

And my 1870-ish dress is finished except for the collar and cuffs. It will take awhile to do all the rolled hems, but I'm pretty happy with how it's coming out. No, you don't get pictures because I don't feel like getting all dressed up. (More accurately, things have been very busy so I haven't had time to get all dressed up.)
atherleisure: (reader)
I've finished 73 repeats of my petticoat lace. When I blocked a big chunk last month, it came out to 1.5yd for 40 repeats so 80 repeats should give me 3yd. I'll finish knitting 80 and block it before I bind off just to make sure I've got the whole 3yd. I've definitely gotten faster than one repeat per hour and now know the pattern so well that I can read a book while knitting except that I have to look for the k2t and psso bits.

It sounds like I'll be swatching those new mitts quite soon!

I have the ribbon for my hood so I should be able to finish it tonight. And my dress is close to done except for the collar and cuffs. I have half the trim sewn on and half of it pinned on. The collar and cuffs will take awhile since they have to have rolled hems, and I don't do those quickly. Then I baste the skirt to the bodice and put on a few hooks and thread eyes and tack up the skirt draping, and it will be done. It will take awhile, but it feels like it's nearly finished.
atherleisure: (reader)
I've given myself a couple of half-days off to do as I please this week. Some of that time was spent on my early 1870's dress, which is now all cut out. I've also sewn up the skirt and sleeve seams. Now I'm at the point where I have to do ironing and handwork - the hooks and eyes, the false seams on the bodice back, setting the waist, etc.

I started a knitted 1856 opera hood, and I finished the sixtieth repeat on my petticoat lace. That makes me 75% finished with it! Of course, since the hood is new, I want to work on it right now, but I'm trying to be good and save it for when I'm reading. (Naturally, when I finished Tied up in Tinsel yesterday, I chose something that I don't have to hold open so that I could knit while I read it.) I've got about an inch finished out of the big 7" piece. It seems like it will be a fairly quick project. I still have to pick a color for the ribbons, though, and I am quite undecided. I could do red or green or gold or blush...

And a random observation: Vintage sheet music is cool, but it's obnoxious to have to come to a complete stop at the page turns so that you can carefully turn the page.
atherleisure: (reader)
I pressed the pieces for my sweater. It's amazing how different the fabric is after pressing. While I was pressing, it occurred to me that all three 1930's knitted items I've made have called for lightly pressing the pieces under a damp cloth. I guess it was a popular finish at the time. Now the shoulder seams are sewn, I've picked up the stitches around the neck, and I'm about 1/4 of the way through the neck ribbing.

Sunday night I blocked another thirty repeats of my lace, and I measured it yesterday. The forty blocked repeats work out to 1.5yd. Since I'm going for three yards, I'll only need to do about 80 repeats instead of 100, which will save about 20 hours of knitting. I've done 51 so I only have about 30 more!
atherleisure: (reader)
The underskirt is nearly finished. It needs two eyes (which means I need to put on my corset, and I'm having trouble getting worked up to do that right now) and a band of trim at the hem. I don't think I'm going to put lace around the hem like the picture has, but I think it will still be nice. (I accidentally hemmed it too long and don't have the lace on hand anyway. I don't really feel like ripping off 180" of hem facing and redoing it.)

I've been doing a lot of knitting while I've been with the family, and I'm up to the armscye shaping on my sweater sleeve. Maybe by this time next week I'll have a finished sweater to show off.

I've also worked a dozen repeats on my petticoat lace. That's about an eighth of what I need so I'm about 3/8 finished. It's not a short-term project.

Knitting

Oct. 19th, 2015 10:31 am
atherleisure: (reader)
Things have been busy lately, though there is a slow-down in sight. Since I finished the 17th century things, I'm mostly been knitting. It's easy to pick up and put down with just a little time to work on it.

I did a few repeats of my 1892 lace but have mostly worked on my 1936 sweater. I finished the back of it and started a sleeve. I suspect I'm going to be short on yarn because I actually bought the yarn for a different pattern from the one I eventually decided on. I bought the yarn based on a short-sleeved pattern, and now I'm making a long-sleeved sweater, realizing that I'm never going to wear a short-sleeved sweater with a normal sweater-weight body in Houston. Once I have the back and sleeve finished, I'll know whether I need more yarn and how much.

1936 Sweater with "Turreted" Collar - Back
atherleisure: (reader)
I meant to share a picture of the first several repeats of my petticoat lace.

1892 knitted lace -size 000 needles

This is the pattern on 000 needles, and I think it looks much better. Of course, I haven't knit any more of it since then, but I've got the body and half the skirt of a seventeenth century petticoat so no complaints there.
atherleisure: (Default)
I've been working off and on on the lace for an 1890's petticoat and finished the tenth repeat today. That was the point I had promised myself I could block and measure to see what kind of length I'm getting. It's 14" so I'm getting about 1 3/8" per repeat. That makes 26 repeats per yard. I don't know just how much I'll need because the body of the petticoat isn't finished yet, but it should be less than four yards so I shouldn't need any more than 100 repeats. It's still a lot, but at least it means I'm at least a tenth of the way through, right?

I'm also a tenth of the way through my (possibly Tolkien-esque) pinball. And I'm half done with my 1780's underbodice. I've done a lot of thinking about 1610's stuff but haven't cut anything yet. I might do that tomorrow, but I think I'll finish the underbodice tonight. I don't like UFO's, even if I have a lot of them right now.
atherleisure: (reader)
Obviously I'm not that excited about the lace I'm knitting because I started another pinball today. What can I say? They're the epitome of portability.

This one will have a ship on the front and crowns and initials on the back. Crowns seemed to go with ships - "royal navy" and all. Originals that it will be based on: front and back. Okay, the back is actually based on a cross-stitch pattern that's supposed to be based on a knitted original. I've seen patterns on originals that had a similar feel so it should do nicely.

I do want the lace for a petticoat, but I'm not that interested in making the petticoat right now and the ball of thread is actually quite big, maybe 4" in diameter. I did test out that I can knit it while riding in the car so I'm not completely abandoning it for the present. (Though the 1930's sweater seems to be falling by the wayside. I did what? 3 rows?)

UPS is supposed to deliver my copy of The Tudor Tailor tomorrow so I'll get back to the whole 1610's thing soon. For now, I think I'll be making a smock, petticoat with upperbodies, jacket, and some kind of cap. After I review the book, I'll probably have some specific questions. (Actually, I have some specific questions now, but the book may address at least some of them. I don't remember all the details from when I read it before since at that time this stuff was still in the "I want to make this at some point but don't really have any place to wear it" category.)

In the meantime I've been discovering that trimming bonnets requires a level of artistry that I do not have. I am the first one to admit that I am not even remotely artistic. I am a technician, and that's fine by me. Building the bonnet base and covering it - okay. Decorating it - the pits. I'm still hoping to finish it up this week, but the trimming is irritating me.

Gauging

Aug. 4th, 2015 06:02 pm
atherleisure: (reader)
I tried the 1892 lace pattern again with size 000 needles, and after blocking, I like it better. Ignoring the dropped stitch that ran, how does it look?

1892 Knitted Lace

There's nothing to show how big it is in the picture, but the knitting needle is 1.5mm in diameter, if that helps.

Here's the old 4-0 gauge for comparison.

1892 Lace

I also gauged my next sizeable knitting project. The pattern calls for size 4 needles and a 7 st/in gauge, but size 3 gave me gauge. I was actually good and knit a 3"x5" swatch with each of the two needle sizes. Now, I am apparently incapable of measuring knitting properly so it may or may not come out, but I'm hoping that virtue will be rewarded so that my sweater comes out reasonably. I'll probably cast that project on tomorrow while listening to my daughters read.

Missing

Jul. 31st, 2015 09:11 am
atherleisure: (reader)
How do you lose your combinations?

I went to take pictures of my 1880's navy faille gown today since the last time I tried was a dismal failure, and I found everything except my combinations. Everything else was exactly where it belonged, but I couldn't find the combinations. Hmph. I had to wear something else and got some good pictures, but I really don't want to lose those combinations. I like them!

ETA: I'm an idiot. They're on my dummy, which is still modeling my new knitted petticoat. That's a relief.
atherleisure: (reader)
I spent a few of my evenings this week working on lace. It's from a pattern published in The Art of Knitting in 1892 (#71 on page 50). I'm using #30 crochet cotton and 4-0 needles, and after blocking the first eight repeats, I can't say I'm thrilled with it. The idea had been to make enough for the hem of an 1890's petticoat, but since it's really not blocking out the way I hoped it would and takes about an hour to the inch, I'm not sure whether I'll pursue it.

1892 Lace

Other than that I've been working on an 1880's dress. I fit the bodice muslin and cut the lining. Last night, I cut the silk faille for the main garment, though I'm holding off cutting the sleeves until I have the bodice together and can double check the fit. I still need to cut the contrast, which will be a silver silk taffeta. I'm hoping to cut the bodice pieces tonight, but I'll have to put together the drapery before cutting the skirt because I want to conserve the silver where I can so I'll only be using it where it shows on the skirt. So there's nothing noteworthy on that dress at present, but I'm pleased so far.
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished the last 1880's petticoat today. It's the same pattern as the last one, but this one has a tucked flounce at the bottom while the last one had tucks in the main body and an eyelet flounce. Now I am officially finished with 1880's underwear.

1880's Petticoat

Please don't tell me there's something else I need because I really want to do something that's not white for a bit. Oh, yeah, that's why I started my 1940's robe. It's green. It's also nearly finished - hooks and eyes, shoulder pads, and hemming. I anticipate it being finished before the weekend is over.

Then what's next? Probably redrafting the pattern for the 1880's bodice since the last one was a loser.
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished my second 1880's petticoat. I just have one more, and I'll be finished with the pile of 1880's undergarments. I still have a couple more to make for the 1890's, but to have one set complete will be very, very pleasant. I think that's why I've been a little less than excited about my sewing lately - the things I want to make are in new eras, and that means a lot of new undergarments.

1880's Flounced Petticoat

This petticoat was made using the skirt pattern on or about page 150 in Bustle Era Fashions and drafted with the 25" rule. It fit well and didn't need much taken out of it. That would be more reassuring if my waist measurement weren't 26.5". I also checked the bodice pattern I made using the 35" rule, and it was way off - inches too big and too long again so I guess I'll be redrafting with the 33" rule. That was depressing enough that I decided not to pattern last night and read instead.
atherleisure: (reader)
I'm continuing to work on my 1880's underpinnings. The corset cover and bustled petticoat are finished. Now I just have a couple more petticoats to make, and I'll be finished. That's the worst part about a new era - miles and miles of whites.

I chose to make a petticoat with steels instead of an independent bustle since I knew I needed about three petticoats anyway. This killed two birds with one stone.

1880s Corset Cover

1880's Petticoat with Steels

The patterns for both are from Bustle Era Fashions. Both ended up too big. I took inches out of each because they weren't even close. Now I'm wondering how the bodice pattern I drafted will do since I used the same rule as I did for the corset cover.

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