atherleisure: (reader)
This ended up seeming to be a year of little pieces more than full garments, though I did make costumes from the skin out for the 1690's and 1910's. I did a lot of knitting this year. One of my goals for the year was to do better with my hair for events, and I think I succeeded. There were some hairdos that I was very proud of. I got to go to a lot of events in different periods and had some opportunities to wear things that I had never really gotten to wear. One of the best parts was getting to meet a couple of LJ friends in real life in July.

I finally made the Le Baiser dress I had been planning for years.
Le Baiser

The rest is behind the cut: )
atherleisure: (reader)
I have finished 1916 underwear. Combinations, corset, two petticoats (one plain and one ruffled), stockings (nylon, but they're opaque and thigh high), and shoes. Now I just need a dress.

And now onto the pictures.

The corset:

Untitled

More pictures... )

Now I'm starting to get excited about the 1916 dress again, which is good.
atherleisure: (reader)
1. It finally stopped raining! We got about 10" of rain last night. All the schools are closed, the city and county offices and courts are closed, my husband's office is closed...We not only had a flash flood watch or warning, we got a flash flood emergency. Fortunately, our house is outside the 100-year flood plain so no problems for us (though somewhere west of us they've got water into what the news called 500-year flood plain - I'm not sure that even means anything since I don't think there's any data going back anything like that far). It still was not a nice night, storming from midnight until 8:00 AM. I doubt anyone got much sleep.

2. My husband went to the movies yesterday afternoon so I decided that meant I could goof off too. I finished my second 1916 petticoat so I am officially finished with underwear for the project! I'm going to try to get my husband to take pictures this evening so I can share.

3. I also worked on my miser's purse. The first set of shamrocks is finished. I'm thinking I should have gone with seven pattern repeats around instead of eight, but it will be fine. I originally thought the original had eight, but now I'm not sure why I thought that and have revised my opinion - I think it has only seven. I'm not ripping the whole thing out and starting over.

Shamrock Purse Progress 4/18/16
atherleisure: (reader)
Starting a new period from the skin out is wearying. I've got through the combinations, a corset, one petticoat, and all of a second petticoat save some ruffles at the hem. Now my attention is starting to wander. Maybe you could say it already wandered because I made the ribbon corset recently. Regardless, the motivation for the petticoat ruffles is lacking. Then it's fitting for the bodice of the dress, which is one of my less favorite parts of sewing.

It doesn't help that I need a new knitting project since I finished the 1910's corset lace. That always causes distraction. And now that I've got the ribbon corset, I kind of want to make the skirt that will finish off the c. 1907 sports outfit before it gets too hot to want to put on the sweater. And I'm getting interested in making a new Regency reticule with tambour embroidery on it.

I've got two months of sewing time before I need the 1910's stuff. Maybe I can have a short break and then be more energetic about the dress. Or maybe I'll lose interest more...
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished trimming my 1910's corset last night. If I get all my work done today, I'll try to get pictures of it, but first there's laundry and dusting and dishes and whatever else I think of.

In the meantime, I did snap a picture of it laid flat - er, as flat as it gets, that is.

1910's Corset - Laid Flat

I've also been doing a couple of knitting tests. I played with knitting with beads, which turns out to be much easier than I feared it would, and I tested a pattern for openwork stockings. I wasn't sure how it would look from reading the pattern so I tried it out. It turns out to look like a random array of eyelets. That's really not my thing so I need to try another pattern.



The openwork stocking idea isn't really exciting me right now so that one might get pushed off. Size 30 cotton knits up into a very stiff fabric so I might want to go with wool on these for comfort. I don't want to make more stockings out of the laceweight merino I've been using because I know it really won't hold up in the long term. I might test a couple more patterns, but right now I'm really attracted by the idea of a pineapple reticule, if I like knitting the miser's purse or long purse, whichever term you prefer. The beading cord (thanks, [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat, for recommending it as a substitute for purse twist) is on its way so I'll probably get to start that this week. I guess I should figure out what pattern I'm going to use...
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished knitting the lace for my 1910's corset last night! I should be blocking it tonight and finishing that project up by the end of the week!

Next up will be gauging some 19th century openwork stockings, but before I start knitting them, I want to make a miser's purse. Everyone needs a green silk purse, right?
atherleisure: (reader)
Just checking in with a progress report...

My 1910's corset looks funny in the closet right now since I sewed on half the lace. I'm still knitting the other half so it will continue to look funny for a couple more weeks at least. There are only five pattern repeats left to do on the lace, but I really only work on it when I'm away from home or don't feel like sewing so I don't know how long it will take.

I finished my first 1916 petticoat and cut out the second one excluding ruffles but haven't sewn a stitch on it yet. The first one was plain, but the second will have three small ruffles around the hem. I'll get to use my rolled hem foot, which I practically never use so that makes me happy.

My c. 1904 ribbon corset is coming along nicely. I've finished the front and the sides so now I just need to do the back. I expect to finish everything except the grommets tonight and to do the grommets tomorrow or Thursday.

1904 Ribbon Corset - Progress 3/27/16

Silk satin ribbon is wiggly, but it's so pretty.
atherleisure: (reader)
I feel that I have accomplished quite a bit lately.

I've functionally finished my 1910's corset and am almost halfway through knitting the lace for it. I've nearly finished a petticoat using instructions from a dressmaking book published in 1916. It just needs a hem, which I'm hoping to get to tonight. Then I'll just want one more petticoat to finish the undergarments for my 1916 dress.

I've selected a dress that I want to make for the 1910's event this summer. It's the pink evening dress, but mine will be green. (I'm sure that's the shock of a lifetime.) I've done a little thinking about construction, and I'll probably post my thoughts later as a sanity check.



I've finished knitting one 18th century mitt and cast on the second. They're such completely mindless knitting, and it's always good to have mindless knitting on hand.

I've even managed to do a couple of alterations that I've been meaning to for at least a year now. I cut down the neck on my robe a la piemontaise and cut down the top of my mid-19th century corset. I hate altering things that are finished so this is quite an accomplishment.

Yes, I meant to start every paragraph the same way.
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished my 1918 combination undergarment. It's a bit goofy looking, but it's the design, not my execution of it. It's also not something I'm going to post pictures of myself wearing on the internet so you get a picture on the dummy.

1918 Combination Undergarment

I used the pattern here and assumed it was to scale. Knowing that a lot of sweater patterns from the 1900's (decade, not century) are for a 36" bust, I figured I wasn't way far off of the standard size. I sized it up until the band was 40.5" so that it would go over my hips without the band having to open. This worked reasonably well, but my garment is slightly shorter than the pattern drawing - that one just covers the kneecap while mine ends just above the knee. Does that mean I sized it up wrong, or does that mean that the drawing isn't particularly accurate? I don't know, but I'm satisfied with my work.

The corset is in progress, and I printed out the skirt pattern but haven't taped everything together. I've read sections of a dressmaking manual published in 1916, and it sounds like most of the information is the same as it was in the 1905 dressmaking manual I read a few years ago so I feel a little better about constructing the dress. (I goofed on the combinations though and used flat-felled seams instead of French seams. Oops. Hear the concern in my voice...or not. I hate French seams.)
atherleisure: (reader)
1. I found a flock of old sewing manuals here: http://www.survivorlibrary.com/?page_id=1379 Perhaps others already know about them, but I thought I'd share for those who may not.

2. [livejournal.com profile] nuranar is featured at the top of the Wearing History clothing website. It's a lovely picture. Wearinghistory.clothing

3. The top edge of my 1910's corset is 14" on each side. Three repeats of the lace pattern I'm using block out to 5" so I need eight or nine repeats on each side. I've got five done so I'm more than a quarter of the way through that. [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson's original has the lace wrap to the back, but I don't think I trust knitted lace to last long with the corset laces rubbing on it so I might stop it before the eyelets. I guess I need to look at more examples to see what people really did.
atherleisure: (reader)
My 1918 combinations are progressing nicely. I have a body, a band, and two straps. Now I just need to assemble everything. In the meantime, the body was too ridiculous-looking not to share. It looks like a giant diaper or maybe giant underpants.

1918 Combinations in progress
atherleisure: (reader)
I finally took pictures! I've got the lace-trimmed petticoat and the 1870's Le Baiser dress.

Boring thing first: the petticoat
The upper part of the petticoat is from a pattern in Fashions of the Gilded Age The bottom is a flounce three yards in circumference. I found a museum piece* with nine ~1/4" tucks and an eyelet edging and used that as my inspiration for the flounce. Mine has hand-knit lace instead of eyelet.

Petticoat with Tucks and Lace - Front

For reasons that I have completely forgotten, I put ties on the waist of this petticoat instead of a button and buttonhole. I got it from somewhere, but I really do not remember where. It's a little annoying to do up but not terrible.

Anyway, I figure it's appropriate for not only the natural form period when the pattern was published but also the years after the turn of the twentieth century. I think it will be appropriate as far into the 20th century as hems brushed the floor.

It makes me happy because I have a petticoat with hand-knit lace. Not only hand-knit lace, but hand-knit lace from a period pattern. That definitely makes me feel good about my costuming self.

*I tried to link to the webpage in the Met instead of Pinterest, but the Met site kept giving me errors so you get a Pinterest link.
atherleisure: (reader)
1. I finished my bonnet for the tea Saturday. It came out well, and I'm going to ask Kaycee to take pictures of it at the tea. She's usually quite obliging, and she takes excellent pictures.

2. Speaking of excellent pictures, I'm very lucky to know people who are willing to take good pictures of my work since I'm a lousy photographer. So thanks to [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson, Kaycee, and Liz. Speaking of Liz, I've got some pictures she took the last time we were in Williamsburg that I want to share. They're the first good pictures of my curtain-along sacque.

3. I made an adjustment to the ribbon corset mock-up, and I'm happy with it. I have all the materials so I'm ready to go with it. I don't think it will be my next project, but it needs to stay near the top of the list.

4. Last night I made the changes to the paper pattern for the 1910's corset pattern that I mocked up a bit ago. I have all the materials for it so I should be starting on it shortly. (Unless it counts as already started because I've already knit a few inches of lace for it!)

5. I've scaled up a pattern draft from 1918 for combination underwear so I'll probably work on that in parallel with the 1910's corset.

6. My new 18th century mitts are progressing. I've gotten to the wrist of the first one and have started widening for the hand.

7. I still haven't gotten around to taking pictures of the petticoat with the knitted lace or the 1870's dress. I have high hopes of doing so this weekend.

Tonight is the girls' school program so I don't know whether I'll get much time to sew, but I'm hoping to find time to cut out the combinations and block the lace I've knit so far. Then I'll be able to estimate how many pattern repeats of lace I'll need for the corset.
atherleisure: (reader)
The supplies for my c. 1904 ribbon corset and 1910's corset have arrived. I want to make a couple of changes to the ribbon corset mock-up before saying the pattern is done, and I need to mark the pattern for the 1910's corset with the changes I made. Then they're ready to go. I've also scaled up a combination undergarment pattern from 1918 so it's ready to go too.

But not yet.

There's a Houston Area Regency Society tea a week from Saturday, and I have the materials for a bonnet to match my new spencer. I'm hoping I'll be able to have it finished by then. I've cut and wired the frame and sewn the tip to the crown sides, and I'm hoping to have the mull layer on at least the brim by the end of my sewing time tonight. Actually, I'm hoping to have the whole mull layer done, which will leave me five days for covering the bonnet and doing whatever rudimentary trim I find myself capable of. Trimming bonnets is really not my strong point. Actually, designing trim period is really not my strong point. I'm just not artistic enough. I think there's a level of artistry required for millinery that I simply am not capable of. It's not how my mind works.
atherleisure: (reader)
It would seem that by the latter part of the 1910's, commercial paper patterns were the norm. I spent a couple of hours trolling through sewing books published between 1915 and 1919, and they all assume that you're making garments from paper patterns. They talk about altering them and give instructions for making up, but they don't give drafts. Interesting, though not necessarily useful for me right now.

ETA: Look, I found a pattern for combinations! An original draft from the Ladies' Home Journal of 1918.

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