atherleisure: (reader)
A group of us went to see My Fair Lady in 1910's costume Saturday night. It was a very good community theater production at a theater built in the 1930's. It's a nice venue, and they're a good community theater group. I particularly liked their Henry Higgins, Mrs. Higgins was very funny, and Freddy Eynsford-Hill did a marvelous job with "On the Street Where You Live."

Ten of us met for dinner at a restaurant a few blocks away from the theater for a very nice dinner then walked over to the theater for the show. I think we made quite a nice group.

Here's dinner at Jose's Villa Italia:
Dinner Group

In our seats before the curtain:
Theater Seating

A proper group picture after the show:
Theater Group

We also took pictures of the individual couples at the end.
1916 Evening Dress

I'm glad I got to wear my 1916 evening dress again.

All pictures were supplied by Martha Graham.
atherleisure: (reader)
This ended up seeming to be a year of little pieces more than full garments, though I did make costumes from the skin out for the 1690's and 1910's. I did a lot of knitting this year. One of my goals for the year was to do better with my hair for events, and I think I succeeded. There were some hairdos that I was very proud of. I got to go to a lot of events in different periods and had some opportunities to wear things that I had never really gotten to wear. One of the best parts was getting to meet a couple of LJ friends in real life in July.

I finally made the Le Baiser dress I had been planning for years.
Le Baiser

The rest is behind the cut: )
atherleisure: (reader)
Saturday night we went to see the Gilbert and Sullivan Society's production of Princess Ida as a costumed group. There were sixteen of us, many of whom were dressed for the period between 1890 and 1925.

"Princess Ida" outing group

Afterward we went out for dinner and to celebrate one of our number's birthday.

image

image

I meant to get better pictures of my dress, but I didn't. Not at all. I did manage to get a picture of the back of the dress since I fixed it, but I still need to tighten up the shoulders a bit because they had a tendency to slide off the shoulder down when I sit.

So here are the same old pictures of the front:
1916 Evening Dress

1916 Evening Dress

And here are the new pictures:
1916 Evening Dress - Back

I also got one showing how the waist fastens.

1916 Evening Dress - Fastening

I was reasonably pleased with how my hair turned out, and it can be seen in the new pictures. Hair is not my strong point.
atherleisure: (reader)
I've got two pictures as a preview of my 1916 evening dress. I'm going to try to get better ones when I wear it to the theater next month.

1916 Evening Dress

1916 Evening Dress

I changed the skirt design since my overlay was chiffon rather than net, but other than that I feel I did a reasonable job of imitating the original magazine ad.

So Close

May. 28th, 2016 03:59 pm
atherleisure: (reader)
I think I just have two snaps, one hook and eye, and seven flowers left to finish my 1916 dress. It should be done before the end of the holiday weekend. Then I think I'll have time to put together a crinoline bustle before CLW, which should pack much more nicely than my petticoat with steels and be more appropriate for the Le Baiser dress anyway.

In other updates, the shorts I was making are finished, and I've made progress on the Regency evening bodice. I had to rip out the pineapple and start over - I twisted the stitches when I joined the round so I went to four needles when I cast on again and am much happier about it. At least the second time casting on was rather faster than the first time. My 1912 knit vest is 1.25" short of finishing the back.

We got tons of rain yesterday and Thursday (when I say tons, I mean roads under water and everything), but now the weather seems to have decided it should behave itself for the holiday weekend. It's bright sunshine and 91F.

Next weekend we have a HARS sewing day so that should be fun. We haven't gotten together since the beginning of March due to one thing and another.
atherleisure: (reader)
My project count exploded yesterday. I cut out a pair of shorts from the same pattern that I used for my playsuit shorts last year but in more serviceable brown twill. I cut out three linen Regency bodice linings because it was probably easier to cut three while the linen was out than to get it out again later. I started knitting a vest. So now I have seven projects that are in some state of completion.

The exciting thing is that I'm halfway through the knitting for my shamrock purse!

Shamrock Purse Progress - 5/10/16

The center section is running about 30 rows to the inch so I've got about 55 more rows to go before I get back to the much faster-moving and more interesting beading. At least I can read a novel while working this part, even if I wouldn't dare read something serious.

My 1916 dress is progressing. It got some nasty looks for a bit because the chiffon ended up being too opaque to work well with my inspiration image so I'm reworking it a bit. The skirt is making good progress. Currently it's hanging, letting the bias drop. I'll get back to it later this week. I'm not sure how far I'll get since I am having bodice fitting issues that I'll have to resolve. Ah, well.

With the mitts finished, of course I needed another mindless knitting project. The vest is from 1912 pattern book published by Lion Brand yarn.


I suspect the model is not wearing the size given - somehow she looks a lot more buxom than a 34"-36" bust. This is interesting because the back is in single ribbing up to the armscyes, which should ensure that the vest keeps a close fit. We'll see how it goes. I've wanted one of these knitted vests ever since I saw a picture of one from a DAR museum exhibit. (I've linked to it before, but I don't want to go and find it right now.)
atherleisure: (reader)
I have finished 1916 underwear. Combinations, corset, two petticoats (one plain and one ruffled), stockings (nylon, but they're opaque and thigh high), and shoes. Now I just need a dress.

And now onto the pictures.

The corset:

Untitled

More pictures... )

Now I'm starting to get excited about the 1916 dress again, which is good.
atherleisure: (reader)
Starting a new period from the skin out is wearying. I've got through the combinations, a corset, one petticoat, and all of a second petticoat save some ruffles at the hem. Now my attention is starting to wander. Maybe you could say it already wandered because I made the ribbon corset recently. Regardless, the motivation for the petticoat ruffles is lacking. Then it's fitting for the bodice of the dress, which is one of my less favorite parts of sewing.

It doesn't help that I need a new knitting project since I finished the 1910's corset lace. That always causes distraction. And now that I've got the ribbon corset, I kind of want to make the skirt that will finish off the c. 1907 sports outfit before it gets too hot to want to put on the sweater. And I'm getting interested in making a new Regency reticule with tambour embroidery on it.

I've got two months of sewing time before I need the 1910's stuff. Maybe I can have a short break and then be more energetic about the dress. Or maybe I'll lose interest more...
atherleisure: (reader)
Disclaimer: I don't know a lot about 1910's/Edwardian/WWI era construction. I've handled a couple of antiques from the first decade of the 20th century. I've read part of a dress-making book published in 1916, but it didn't really handle closures other than to mention either center front or center back for skirts. I know something about 1930's construction, which is very like modern construction. I don't know exactly when things changed from "let's go through convolutions to hide the fastenings" to "let's just use a row of snaps in a left side placket."

That being said, what follow are my thoughts on how this dress should be constructed. If you see that I've got something wrong for the period or there's a better way to do it, please let me know.

Here's the inspiration dress again:


Here are my thoughts:
Bodice:
Layer 1: lining
Either cotton twill or silk taffeta
Boned at side seams, back, center front, and darts
Goes to the natural waist
Layer 2: taffeta inset
Silk taffeta laid on smoothly at front (triangular inset in picture)
I won't do the whole bodice to save on layers and heat
Layer 3: overlay
Silk chiffon
Cut without shoulder seams
Neck edged with flat lace ~2-3” wide
Short kimono sleeves with rolled hem and caught up slightly at the top with a rosette (~1" diameter)
It looks like there’s something hanging down the back behind her arm, but I really have no idea what, other than that it looks like lace.
Mounted onto taffeta covered lining
Layer 4: taffeta outer layer
Folds of silk taffeta from side seam to center front and from side seam to center back, if I use closure option 1 (see below) or side to side, if I use closure option 2
Rosette (~2" diameter) at point on front

Skirt
Layer 1: taffeta
Silk taffeta using Wearing History 1910's suit skirt pattern but with center back closing instead of center front closing
2-3” deep hem
Mounts on bodice lining between layer 3 and layer 4
Layer 2: chiffon
Silk chiffon
Six points edged with same lace as at neck
Layer 3: chiffon
Edged with bias strips of taffeta (1/2” finished width?)
Cut a little fuller than other layers but same lower edge as layer 2
Caught up between center and side front with rosettes (~1" diameter) and between center and side back with rosettes but not between side front and side back

Closure
Option 1:
The whole thing closes at center back with hooks and bars. (And I'm pleased that I can actually use all those bars I have. Why do they insist on selling packs with both eyes and bars when I really only want eyes?)
I would put hooks as high as the bodice taffeta layer and then just a hook and thread eye at the neck of the chiffon layer.
Option 2:
The skirt closes at center back. The bodice lining closes at center front. The middle layers of the bodice close at the left side. The outer layer of the bodice closes where it overlaps in front, probably with a moderately large snap.


I would welcome feedback, particularly if you've researched this period and can either tell me I've got it right or tell me where to improve my plan.
atherleisure: (reader)
I feel that I have accomplished quite a bit lately.

I've functionally finished my 1910's corset and am almost halfway through knitting the lace for it. I've nearly finished a petticoat using instructions from a dressmaking book published in 1916. It just needs a hem, which I'm hoping to get to tonight. Then I'll just want one more petticoat to finish the undergarments for my 1916 dress.

I've selected a dress that I want to make for the 1910's event this summer. It's the pink evening dress, but mine will be green. (I'm sure that's the shock of a lifetime.) I've done a little thinking about construction, and I'll probably post my thoughts later as a sanity check.



I've finished knitting one 18th century mitt and cast on the second. They're such completely mindless knitting, and it's always good to have mindless knitting on hand.

I've even managed to do a couple of alterations that I've been meaning to for at least a year now. I cut down the neck on my robe a la piemontaise and cut down the top of my mid-19th century corset. I hate altering things that are finished so this is quite an accomplishment.

Yes, I meant to start every paragraph the same way.

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