Disclaimer: I don't know a lot about 1910's/Edwardian/WWI era construction. I've handled a couple of antiques from the first decade of the 20th century. I've read part of a dress-making book published in 1916, but it didn't really handle closures other than to mention either center front or center back for skirts. I know something about 1930's construction, which is very like modern construction. I don't know exactly when things changed from "let's go through convolutions to hide the fastenings" to "let's just use a row of snaps in a left side placket."
That being said, what follow are my thoughts on how this dress should be constructed. If you see that I've got something wrong for the period or there's a better way to do it, please let me know.
Here's the inspiration dress again:
Here are my thoughts:Bodice:Layer 1: lining
Either cotton twill or silk taffeta
Boned at side seams, back, center front, and darts
Goes to the natural waistLayer 2: taffeta inset
Silk taffeta laid on smoothly at front (triangular inset in picture)
I won't do the whole bodice to save on layers and heatLayer 3: overlay
Cut without shoulder seams
Neck edged with flat lace ~2-3” wide
Short kimono sleeves with rolled hem and caught up slightly at the top with a rosette (~1" diameter)
It looks like there’s something hanging down the back behind her arm, but I really have no idea what, other than that it looks like lace.
Mounted onto taffeta covered liningLayer 4: taffeta outer layer
Folds of silk taffeta from side seam to center front and from side seam to center back, if I use closure option 1 (see below) or side to side, if I use closure option 2
Rosette (~2" diameter) at point on frontSkirtLayer 1: taffeta
Silk taffeta using Wearing History 1910's suit skirt pattern but with center back closing instead of center front closing
2-3” deep hem
Mounts on bodice lining between layer 3 and layer 4Layer 2: chiffon
Six points edged with same lace as at neckLayer 3: chiffon
Edged with bias strips of taffeta (1/2” finished width?)
Cut a little fuller than other layers but same lower edge as layer 2
Caught up between center and side front with rosettes (~1" diameter) and between center and side back with rosettes but not between side front and side backClosureOption 1:
The whole thing closes at center back with hooks and bars. (And I'm pleased that I can actually use all those bars I have. Why do they insist on selling packs with both eyes and bars when I really only want eyes?)
I would put hooks as high as the bodice taffeta layer and then just a hook and thread eye at the neck of the chiffon layer.Option 2:
The skirt closes at center back. The bodice lining closes at center front. The middle layers of the bodice close at the left side. The outer layer of the bodice closes where it overlaps in front, probably with a moderately large snap.
I would welcome feedback, particularly if you've researched this period and can either tell me I've got it right or tell me where to improve my plan.