atherleisure: (reader)
Eight yards of 60" wide rose-colored wool twill has carried me a long way.

First I made stays:
1780 Stays - Front

Then I made a pelisse:
1800's Pelisse - Back with Hood up

Now I've made a skirt:
1900s Sports Clothes - Front

1900s Sports Clothes - Side (2)

1900s Rose Wool Skirt - Back

I still have a piece left that is full width for about 7/8 of a yard and half-width for about another yard so I can probably get a jacket to match the skirt out of it if I have conservative sleeves.

I used the same 1897 Harper's Bazar pattern [livejournal.com profile] mala_14 used for her recent 1895 ensemble, and, like her, I thought it also would work for the years just after the turn of the century. I had had every intention of interlining the hem with crinoline, but in checking, I found that it didn't seem likely that they were still doing that by c. 1905 so I skipped it. The hem is faced rather than turned up because I was planning to interline it with crinoline. Somehow my cutting got a bit wonky around the side so I wound up with only about an inch to turn up and had to hem it for flat shoes rather than the boots I intended to hem it for. (Note to self: check how much I length I actually need for my white wool 1897 dress so that I can be assured of having enough length to accommodate my boot heels.)

There are tennis fashion plates of c. 1905 that show women with skirts that drag the ground in back. It sounds ridiculously impractical to me, but fashion plates aren't about practicality, and it may well be that women wore their skirts shorter in real life. I found an article that talked about women's golf wear that said that they didn't cut their skirts shorter until more like the early 1910's. I presume that was compared to the length of an ordinary walking skirt, but I don't know that. Anyway, the point is that I probably should have cut the skirt shorter, but it was so pretty as it was that I couldn't bear to. As I said, I'll probably make a jacket to go with it anyway, which would make it useful outside the sports arena.

Incidentally, the only way I've found to keep the belt of the sweater down to a point like the pattern picture shows is to pin it in place. Otherwise, it just rides up to be an ordinary round waist.

In the pictures I'm wearing a chemise, ribbon corset, princess petticoat, waist petticoat trimmed with hand-knit lace, and a tucked waist petticoat. The sweater was knit from a pattern published in 1907 (Ravelry page).
atherleisure: (reader)
Starting a new period from the skin out is wearying. I've got through the combinations, a corset, one petticoat, and all of a second petticoat save some ruffles at the hem. Now my attention is starting to wander. Maybe you could say it already wandered because I made the ribbon corset recently. Regardless, the motivation for the petticoat ruffles is lacking. Then it's fitting for the bodice of the dress, which is one of my less favorite parts of sewing.

It doesn't help that I need a new knitting project since I finished the 1910's corset lace. That always causes distraction. And now that I've got the ribbon corset, I kind of want to make the skirt that will finish off the c. 1907 sports outfit before it gets too hot to want to put on the sweater. And I'm getting interested in making a new Regency reticule with tambour embroidery on it.

I've got two months of sewing time before I need the 1910's stuff. Maybe I can have a short break and then be more energetic about the dress. Or maybe I'll lose interest more...
atherleisure: (reader)
Why do I need a 1900's sports outfit? No good reason. When am I going to wear it? No idea. I'll find an excuse. Since it involves a sweater and a medium-weight wool skirt, it may be a good Hallowe'en costume this year. Or it may make an appearance at Dickens on the Strand, assuming "third time's the charm" and I actually make it there this year. That is yet to be determined. At any rate, I now have two pieces finished - the sweater (finished a couple of years ago - see the Ravelry page or the tag for details) and a corset. Yes, it's backward making the corset after the sweater, but at least I made it before the skirt. (I originally made the sweater just for modern wear so I didn't need to deal with the corset then.)

I finished up the corset last night and actually managed to take pictures of it, partly because I hadn't been able to try it on at all until it was finished and wanted to make sure it didn't need any alteration. I'm pleased to report that it didn't.

1904 Ribbon Corset - Front

It's made using the c. 1904 ribbon corset pattern from Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines. The only changes were shortening each piece by 1/2" and narrowing the side pieces from 2" to 1.5" because the mock-up worked well, and it was made with 1.5" ribbon. It's made of 2" wide pink silk satin ribbon and took 5.625 yd plus whatever extra M&J Trimming may have sent - a lot of places seem to give you a bit over when you order, and I haven't measured what I've gotten from them to have a feel for whether they do or not.

I backed the vertical pieces with coutil and lined them with twill. That may be overdoing it, but I wanted to make sure those pieces were sturdy. I left 1" seam allowances too so that everything would be caught in multiple lines of stitching and be less likely to pull apart. It's boned at center front and back and sides with steel. The eyelets are hand-sewn, partly because I couldn't find smaller grommets than I have locally, and partly because there ended up being a lot of layers in the back among coutil, ribbons, twill, and miscellaneous seam allowances, making the grommets more of a pain than they were worth.

1904 Ribbon Corset - Side

1904 Ribbon Corset - Bck

Since satin is shiny, the flash made the pictures less than ideal, but when I tried without the flash, things ended up too shadowy so you get flash pictures. I wore my Regency chemise with it for the pictures, but I'll use my 1880's combinations with it when I wear it for real.

It was a fun project, but now I guess I should get back to the 1916 project.
atherleisure: (Default)
I finally wore my 1907 sweater today, and I got pictures.

1907 Sweater - Front

1907 Sweater - Back

I wore it with a long tweed skirt and felt that I looked ready for some sport as an Edwardian lady but wasn't quite sure which one. It's too cold for golf, bicycling would call for a shorter or split skirt, and shooting doesn't appeal to me.

Here's the Ravelry page.
atherleisure: (Default)
I don't have any grand updates to post. Since I finished the pelisse a couple of weeks ago, I've mostly been knitting. I worked on an 1871 fanchon hood until I ran out of yarn (and wouldn't you know that color would be back-ordered?) then started a little bag using an 1877 pattern for a bag for bluing. Then I started a pair of stockings from Esther Copley's The Comprehensive Knitting Book. The 1907 sweater is finished, and I'll try to get pictures of it in a day or two.

Then I spent a little time working on my cross-stitched garters over the weekend. I have all the quatrefoils defined now.

Last night I finally got back to my 1868 green silk dress. I'm nearly ready to cut the sleeves, and then I'll be able to do all the piping.

At least I have pictures of the pelisse.

1800's Pelisse - Front

1800's Pelisse - Back with Hood up

1800's Pelisse - Back

1800's Pelisse - Front with Hood Up
atherleisure: (Default)
I finished the knitting on my 1907 sweater last night. I even blocked the last piece before I went to bed. Now it's just the relatively trivial business of buttons, buttonholes, and seams.

1907 Sweater Sleeve

Needing a new knitting project, I started a knitted fanchon hood from a pattern in an 1871 issue of Peterson's. Ten rows in twenty minutes means this project won't last long!
atherleisure: (Default)
My 1907 sweater is in the home stretch. I have fifty rows left to knit then buttonholes and assembling the pieces.

I spent my time last night gauging my next project. It's tough to get four stitches per inch with fingering-weight yarn. I had to go all the way up to size 9 needles. They're huge! I'm glad it's not a huge project.
atherleisure: (Default)
This week's report is to say that I've made up the bodice and hood of a Regency pelisse. The skirt is in one piece too but not yet hemmed or had the gathering threads run through it. The sleeves still need to be cut.

1800's Hooded Pelisse Bodice - Front

1800's Hooded Pelisse Bodice - Back

It's based on a fashion plate from Costume Parisien in 1809. Mine won't be trimmed in ermine, though.

My 1907 sweater is moving along too. I'm nearly two-fifths of the way through the second sleeve.
atherleisure: (Default)
I am pleased to report that I have finished the bodice and sleeves of my robe a la piemontaise. I tore the skirt panels last night too so I should be starting to pleat the skirt tonight.

My 1907 sweater is moseying along. I've got about fifty rows left to finish the first sleeve.

And I tore panels for a new 1780's shift while the kids were bathing last night. I still need to cut out the gores and neck, but that will be my next little project after the piemontaise is finished. I'm using the information on Sharon Ann Burnston's website.
atherleisure: (Default)
I'm going to try to get back to posting at least once a week, not that anyone probably reads this.

The ball of yarn I was using on my 1907 sweater ran out so I stopped knitting the sleeve and finally redid the belt. Then I started the collar so that the body of the sweater will be finished. I have a few more rows left of that before I get back to my half-finished sleeve.

After I finished my stays last week, I started a 1780's robe a la piemontaise for the George Washington Ball in Williamsburg at the beginning of March. The petticoat is finished, and the bodice is cut. I'm using the pattern at the National Museum in Denmark and also going for the simpler trim of that one as opposed the the ornate Spanish ones that are still around. After three years of the same dress at that ball, I'm excited that I'll have a new one.
atherleisure: (Default)
I probably should have foreseen this, but I didn't think about it until after the fact. The 1907 sweater pattern I'm using apparently expects a larger bust-to-waist ratio than I have. I pinned the side seams and tried on the sweater and found that it didn't close by inches at the waist. The rest of it looks fine so I just have to rip out the ribbing and redo it.
atherleisure: (Default)
It's definitely looking like a sweater: 1907 Sweater - Blocking

I've finished knitting the body of the 1907 sweater and am currently blocking it.

Now I'm trading back and forth between working on binding my stays - awfully hard on the fingers - and knitting the sleeves.
atherleisure: (Default)
My stays are moving along well. All that's left is covering the seams with tape, binding, sewing in the lining, and putting the eyelets in for the straps. That being said, I don't think I'll get much further on them before Christmas. I might manage to cover some of the seams, but that's about it. Partly because I don't have the binding yet, and partly because it will be better to work on my knitting project with people in and out over the holidays.

So I'll be working on my 1907 sweater for the next several days. I'm about 5" into the back. Still, it's going pretty quickly - maybe an inch per hour - so it's not bad.

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