atherleisure: (reader)
This ended up seeming to be a year of little pieces more than full garments, though I did make costumes from the skin out for the 1690's and 1910's. I did a lot of knitting this year. One of my goals for the year was to do better with my hair for events, and I think I succeeded. There were some hairdos that I was very proud of. I got to go to a lot of events in different periods and had some opportunities to wear things that I had never really gotten to wear. One of the best parts was getting to meet a couple of LJ friends in real life in July.

I finally made the Le Baiser dress I had been planning for years.
Le Baiser

The rest is behind the cut: )

So Close

May. 28th, 2016 03:59 pm
atherleisure: (reader)
I think I just have two snaps, one hook and eye, and seven flowers left to finish my 1916 dress. It should be done before the end of the holiday weekend. Then I think I'll have time to put together a crinoline bustle before CLW, which should pack much more nicely than my petticoat with steels and be more appropriate for the Le Baiser dress anyway.

In other updates, the shorts I was making are finished, and I've made progress on the Regency evening bodice. I had to rip out the pineapple and start over - I twisted the stitches when I joined the round so I went to four needles when I cast on again and am much happier about it. At least the second time casting on was rather faster than the first time. My 1912 knit vest is 1.25" short of finishing the back.

We got tons of rain yesterday and Thursday (when I say tons, I mean roads under water and everything), but now the weather seems to have decided it should behave itself for the holiday weekend. It's bright sunshine and 91F.

Next weekend we have a HARS sewing day so that should be fun. We haven't gotten together since the beginning of March due to one thing and another.
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished my early 1870's dress...exactly one month ago. I took pictures over a week ago. I'm really on top of things.

Le Baiser

It's a c. 1870-71 dress based on the dress the subject wears in the Gustave-Leonard de Jonghe painting Le Baiser. I haven't been able to find a date for the painting, but I think it's the very beginning of the 1870's so that's what I went with for my dress.

I hadn't been quite sure how to go about it, but the line of the skirt of [livejournal.com profile] the_aristocat's 1871 blue voile dress looked quite good to my eyes. She used the 1870-71 gown in Patterns of Fashion so I used that as a starting point. The skirt follows that pattern exactly. (Well, the skirt isn't gathered quite as tightly since I don't have a 23" waist, but otherwise it uses that pattern as is.) The bodice is a version of my 1860's base pattern with the same armscyes and sleeves that I used on my 1868 dress and the neckline and lower edge adjusted on me. The postilion back is a separate piece that I kind of draped on the stand.

The fabric is light green and white shot silk taffeta lined with brown cotton. The same brown cotton is used as a hem facing, and it does show where the skirt is tacked up. That's okay, though, because the hem facing shows in the painting too. Maybe I should have used a lighter color, but I didn't. The underskirt is made from the same pattern as the main skirt but is made of white lawn with a woven satin stripe. The trim is black point d'esprit strips gathered and tacked down under velvet ribbon. The collar and cuffs are the same lawn as the underskirt and are narrow-hemmed and gathered into a band then tacked into the neck and wrists.

Early 1870s Le Baiser Dress - Side

Early 1870s Le Baiser Dress - Front

Early 1870s Le Baiser Dress - Back

The pictures are not especially flattering, but I like the dress. Someday I'll even find an event to wear it to.

ETA: I forgot the link to the painting, but it should be fixed now.
atherleisure: (reader)
1. I finished my bonnet for the tea Saturday. It came out well, and I'm going to ask Kaycee to take pictures of it at the tea. She's usually quite obliging, and she takes excellent pictures.

2. Speaking of excellent pictures, I'm very lucky to know people who are willing to take good pictures of my work since I'm a lousy photographer. So thanks to [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson, Kaycee, and Liz. Speaking of Liz, I've got some pictures she took the last time we were in Williamsburg that I want to share. They're the first good pictures of my curtain-along sacque.

3. I made an adjustment to the ribbon corset mock-up, and I'm happy with it. I have all the materials so I'm ready to go with it. I don't think it will be my next project, but it needs to stay near the top of the list.

4. Last night I made the changes to the paper pattern for the 1910's corset pattern that I mocked up a bit ago. I have all the materials for it so I should be starting on it shortly. (Unless it counts as already started because I've already knit a few inches of lace for it!)

5. I've scaled up a pattern draft from 1918 for combination underwear so I'll probably work on that in parallel with the 1910's corset.

6. My new 18th century mitts are progressing. I've gotten to the wrist of the first one and have started widening for the hand.

7. I still haven't gotten around to taking pictures of the petticoat with the knitted lace or the 1870's dress. I have high hopes of doing so this weekend.

Tonight is the girls' school program so I don't know whether I'll get much time to sew, but I'm hoping to find time to cut out the combinations and block the lace I've knit so far. Then I'll be able to estimate how many pattern repeats of lace I'll need for the corset.
atherleisure: (reader)
The Le Baiser dress is finished...I think. I need to put it on and make sure, but I think it's finished. I need to put it on to get pictures too. Then I need to find an event to wear it to.

The last bits finished were the collar and cuffs, which is as it should be, right?

"Le Baiser" Collar and Cuffs

Now I'm working on finishing a late 19th century petticoat - the one with the knitted lace. I'm making up the flounce, and I've finished the tucks and am about halfway through whipping on the lace. Then I'll just need to sew the flounce to the main body of the petticoat, and I'll be finished with my 1890's underwear. Then I'll be down to just my mitts in progress. That won't last long, but I haven't quite decided what my next project will be.

Petticoat Flounce

About a week and a half ago I went to an "Antebellum Tea." I met up with some local costuming acquaintances there who were kind enough to invite me, knowing that it was close to my house and that I've done a range of periods of costume. Richard was kind enough to take a picture of me with all my winter woolies.

1860's Winter Woolens

Knowing that this was put on by some reenactors, I was a little concerned about going since I didn't know much about the crowd. For instance, would they look down upon me for not having truly period-correct glasses? Would they remark on the fact that my skirt's a trifle short because I really wanted to wear my button boots with their 1.5" heel rather than the shoes I hemmed it for, which only have about a 1/2" heel? It turns out that they're not overly particular, and I suffered no ill comments and perceived no deprecating stares. People were very complimentary of my sontag, and I think overall I was well-dressed for the event. And I got to wear my lovely wool 1860's dress. I love that fabric.
atherleisure: (reader)
I have three yards of hand-knit lace!

1880's Lace

It took 82 repeats of the pattern and something on the order of 500 yards of thread.

Now I guess I'll have to make up the flounce for the petticoat so I can finish my oldest UFO (started in August).

In other news, I started knitting new 18th century mitts and found that I apparently didn't fix the pattern the first time I made them. They were awfully big, even going down a couple of needle sizes so I ripped it all out and started over again. I guess I should fix that pattern...

And my 1870-ish dress is finished except for the collar and cuffs. It will take awhile to do all the rolled hems, but I'm pretty happy with how it's coming out. No, you don't get pictures because I don't feel like getting all dressed up. (More accurately, things have been very busy so I haven't had time to get all dressed up.)
atherleisure: (reader)
I've finished 73 repeats of my petticoat lace. When I blocked a big chunk last month, it came out to 1.5yd for 40 repeats so 80 repeats should give me 3yd. I'll finish knitting 80 and block it before I bind off just to make sure I've got the whole 3yd. I've definitely gotten faster than one repeat per hour and now know the pattern so well that I can read a book while knitting except that I have to look for the k2t and psso bits.

It sounds like I'll be swatching those new mitts quite soon!

I have the ribbon for my hood so I should be able to finish it tonight. And my dress is close to done except for the collar and cuffs. I have half the trim sewn on and half of it pinned on. The collar and cuffs will take awhile since they have to have rolled hems, and I don't do those quickly. Then I baste the skirt to the bodice and put on a few hooks and thread eyes and tack up the skirt draping, and it will be done. It will take awhile, but it feels like it's nearly finished.

Milestones

Jan. 24th, 2016 08:08 am
atherleisure: (reader)
I hit two milestones this week with needlework projects.

(1) My dress is now a dress; it's complete except for trim and draping up the skirt. I'm very satisfied with it. Now I've got the trim materials in hand so I should be able to progress as time permits.

(2) My hood now fits comfortably on my knitting needles. I've gotten through the 7" of plain knitting 220 stitches wide and cast off my hundred stitches and am working through the section where you narrow six stitches per row. I calculated that I have something like fifty rows left, and each row is shorter than the last.

I might have an event to wear my hood to also so that's always a happy thought.
atherleisure: (reader)
I've given myself a couple of half-days off to do as I please this week. Some of that time was spent on my early 1870's dress, which is now all cut out. I've also sewn up the skirt and sleeve seams. Now I'm at the point where I have to do ironing and handwork - the hooks and eyes, the false seams on the bodice back, setting the waist, etc.

I started a knitted 1856 opera hood, and I finished the sixtieth repeat on my petticoat lace. That makes me 75% finished with it! Of course, since the hood is new, I want to work on it right now, but I'm trying to be good and save it for when I'm reading. (Naturally, when I finished Tied up in Tinsel yesterday, I chose something that I don't have to hold open so that I could knit while I read it.) I've got about an inch finished out of the big 7" piece. It seems like it will be a fairly quick project. I still have to pick a color for the ribbons, though, and I am quite undecided. I could do red or green or gold or blush...

And a random observation: Vintage sheet music is cool, but it's obnoxious to have to come to a complete stop at the page turns so that you can carefully turn the page.

Finished!

Jan. 7th, 2016 03:45 pm
atherleisure: (reader)
I'm rather pleased with myself right now for finishing up two garments this week. My 1936 sweater with the (not) turreted collar and the underskirt for the Le Baiser dress are both finished.

1936 Sweater

1870 Underskirt Untrimmed

The skirt picture isn't actually the finished skirt, but the only difference is a band of trim around the hem that I don't think will actually show up well in a picture - it's the same fabric with the stripes running horizontally. I think it's a nice touch, but it's not significant enough to redress the dummy to take a picture. Next up will be the bodice, I think.
atherleisure: (reader)
The underskirt is nearly finished. It needs two eyes (which means I need to put on my corset, and I'm having trouble getting worked up to do that right now) and a band of trim at the hem. I don't think I'm going to put lace around the hem like the picture has, but I think it will still be nice. (I accidentally hemmed it too long and don't have the lace on hand anyway. I don't really feel like ripping off 180" of hem facing and redoing it.)

I've been doing a lot of knitting while I've been with the family, and I'm up to the armscye shaping on my sweater sleeve. Maybe by this time next week I'll have a finished sweater to show off.

I've also worked a dozen repeats on my petticoat lace. That's about an eighth of what I need so I'm about 3/8 finished. It's not a short-term project.
atherleisure: (reader)
I might have started the underskirt for my 1870 dress yesterday. It's cut and seamed, and the waist is set. Now it's hanging so any bias stretching can happen before I hem it. I might start hemming it tonight. Then I need to decide whether it needs a flounce or a flat-applique section at the hem.

1870 Underskirt Back Waist

Here's the picture I'm more or less copying: Le Baiser. I haven't found a date for it, but I think it's about 1870.

Progress

Dec. 18th, 2015 10:55 am
atherleisure: (Default)
I finished the pinball, but pictures will be slightly delayed.

Now I'm making up a couple skirts for my daughter for Christmas. I started cutting yesterday morning, and they're about half-finished. I think I'll be close to finished by the end of the night.

I probably should have worked on them last night, but I didn't. I'm in the mood for a new sewing project, and while I want a little over bodice for a Regency party in January, I just finished a spencer and can't get worked up about it. So I started seriously thinking about the Le Baiser dress I want to make. Once I finish these little skirts, I think I'm going to start working on the underskirt for that.

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