atherleisure: (reader)
The annual Barbara Ateema Ball held by the Clear Lake English Country Dance group was more of a Victorian Christmas party than a ball this year. On a whim I asked my daughters whether they would like to dress up and attend with me, and to my great pleasure, one of them wanted to. Fortunately, I had a dress for her to wear that I had made years ago.

We did a little English country dancing, sang Christmas carols with piano accompaniment by our host and myself, and had a potluck dinner. It was a lovely evening.

I wore the evening version of my late 1860's green dress to which I added a tucker in the week before the party. It was the first time I got to wear it other than taking pictures. I also wore the shoes I dyed at the end of the summer or beginning of the fall. (I changed into them there because they were threatening rain all day, and I didn't want to risk messing up my shoes.)

As usual, I forgot to take any pictures, and I had particularly wanted to pose for pictures with my daughter. What I have are pictures taken by the Grahams to whom all photography credits belong. You see Martha in a plaid 1830's dress in one of the pictures. The dress makes me think of [livejournal.com profile] sewloud and her bold 1830's plaids.

DSC02506

More pictures behind the cut. )
atherleisure: (reader)
I finished my early 1870's dress...exactly one month ago. I took pictures over a week ago. I'm really on top of things.

Le Baiser

It's a c. 1870-71 dress based on the dress the subject wears in the Gustave-Leonard de Jonghe painting Le Baiser. I haven't been able to find a date for the painting, but I think it's the very beginning of the 1870's so that's what I went with for my dress.

I hadn't been quite sure how to go about it, but the line of the skirt of [livejournal.com profile] the_aristocat's 1871 blue voile dress looked quite good to my eyes. She used the 1870-71 gown in Patterns of Fashion so I used that as a starting point. The skirt follows that pattern exactly. (Well, the skirt isn't gathered quite as tightly since I don't have a 23" waist, but otherwise it uses that pattern as is.) The bodice is a version of my 1860's base pattern with the same armscyes and sleeves that I used on my 1868 dress and the neckline and lower edge adjusted on me. The postilion back is a separate piece that I kind of draped on the stand.

The fabric is light green and white shot silk taffeta lined with brown cotton. The same brown cotton is used as a hem facing, and it does show where the skirt is tacked up. That's okay, though, because the hem facing shows in the painting too. Maybe I should have used a lighter color, but I didn't. The underskirt is made from the same pattern as the main skirt but is made of white lawn with a woven satin stripe. The trim is black point d'esprit strips gathered and tacked down under velvet ribbon. The collar and cuffs are the same lawn as the underskirt and are narrow-hemmed and gathered into a band then tacked into the neck and wrists.

Early 1870s Le Baiser Dress - Side

Early 1870s Le Baiser Dress - Front

Early 1870s Le Baiser Dress - Back

The pictures are not especially flattering, but I like the dress. Someday I'll even find an event to wear it to.

ETA: I forgot the link to the painting, but it should be fixed now.
atherleisure: (1868)
I finished the evening bodice for my 1868 dress. I wound up making a belt to go with it too since otherwise the trim looked a little goofy. I think I have enough fabric that I could make tails to go on the belt, but I'm not decided on them (or excited about them) yet so it will be this way for a bit. I'm pretty pleased with how it came out.

1868 Evening Dress - Front

More pictures )

Halfway

Mar. 28th, 2015 08:13 am
atherleisure: (reader)
I'm now halfway through the front of my pinball. It's quite addictive so I haven't really been sewing, just knitting.

18th Century Pinball Progress - 3-28

I did play hooky yesterday afternoon and worked on the evening bodice for my 1868 green dress. I did all the hooks and eyes and sewed the body seams. Now it's in a state to try on and pin the darts, but the most tedious part is done.
atherleisure: (reader)
After thirteen months, I've finished my 1868 green silk dress. I put it on to take pictures, though they're not the best because I was using the camera timer and had to do some experimenting to find where to take the pictures.

I love the line of the skirt from the side.
1868 Green Silk Dress - Side

Other pictures and progress behind the cut...

Other pictures and progress behind the cut... )
atherleisure: (reader)
My sewing hiatus is officially over. I've started back to work on my 1868 green silk dress and am just waiting for the pattern to start the girls' Hallowe'en costumes.

It is not outside the realm of possibility that I might finish my dress tonight. It's really sad to think that I started it over a year ago. I had meant to wear it for last Hallowe'en.
atherleisure: (reader)
The end of my sewing hiatus approaches. I still have about another week before I can start sewing again, but I bought fabrics for the girls' Hallowe'en costumes today so I'm heading that way. Since they didn't have the pattern in the right size, I'll probably get to finish my dress first. It's so close to finished - just one more row of trim and basting the bodice to the skirt. I've even already got the collar and cuffs basted in.
atherleisure: (reader)
The last couple of evenings I actually managed to carve out a quarter hour for myself and, unbelievable though it may be, I did a little sewing. The fourth row of trim on my 1868 skirt is finished! Only one more row to go, but I strongly suspect it will be mid-September before I get the chance to do that.

In the meantime, I'm also plying the knitting needles and I'm halfway through the last hip gore on my corset. I've only got something like 150 rows left in the body, and a lot of those are short rows.

Isn't it great when you actually make progress?
atherleisure: (reader)
I'm finally feeling that I'm making good progress on my knitted corset. I'm about thirty rows from starting the center back gores. That means I'm getting close to halfway around the body. It looks decent through the waist and hips, but the bust will probably be somewhat big. When I held it up to myself after knitting the bust gores, it seemed okay, but on the dummy, it definitely looks like it's for someone a bit curvier than I am.

I even managed to take pictures. The lumpiness at the waist is not the corset wrinkling but rather the corset conforming to the waist contours of the dummy where the adjustment dials are.

The front:
1868 Knitted Corset

The side back:
1868 Knitted Corset

And yes, the dummy is temporarily residing in the garage. Once it comes inside, I'll be able to update on the 1868 dress that I finally got back to working on last week. The bodice is done, and the skirt trim is 70% finished.
atherleisure: (Default)
It took two days, but the trim is pinned on the bodice! (I've mentioned before that I don't get much time to sew, haven't I? Two days gave me about two hours.)

1868 Dress - Bodice Trim Pinned

Now to get it off the dummy!
atherleisure: (Default)
My 1868 dress is now finished except for trim. I've even got photographic evidence. The bodice is pinned to the skirt for now since there's no sense in basting the two together until I've finished the trim.

The front:
1868 Green Silk - Front - Untrimmed

The back:
1868 Green Silk - Back - Untrimmed

It's not really as shiny as it looks in the pictures, so here's picture of the front without the flash, though it still doesn't look quite like it does in real life.
1868 Green Silk - Front - Untrimmed - No Flash

I'm quite pleased.
atherleisure: (Default)
After having been in a drawer for six months, I've finally gotten back to my 1868 dress. I know that for some six months of a UFO is nothing extraordinary, but I don't really do UFO's. I may have several things in progress, but generally speaking, if it's started, it's going - no matter how slowly. Anyway, I'm so glad that this dress is again going.

In the last couple of weeks, I've finished the skirt, exclusive of trim, and made progress on the bodice. Now I've just got to put on the piping and set and hem the sleeves, and the bodice will be finished, again exclusive of trim. Trimming will take time. I'm more or less copying the dress below, and that's a lot of trim!



Here's hoping I finish the construction this week so I can get on to an awful lot of black ribbon soon!
atherleisure: (Default)
I worked a little bit on a few things this week. I am about a third of the way through knitting my 1877 blue (or green) bag and got far enough in my 1849 stockings to determine that small woman though I may be, I'm not quite small enough for Esther Copley's "small-sized stocking." I've started over with the "full-sized stocking with widening for the calf," though I strongly suspect I won't be doing any widening. Actually, I think I'll wind up somewhere between the small size and the full size. Anyway, I'm still in the ribbing so it'll be awhile before I have enough to tell. Still, it's started, and that's the important thing.

Then I finished knitting the swatches for a knitted corset from an 1868 pattern. Once I finish the blue bag and fanchon hood, I intend to start knitting that. Of course, knitting plans do have a tendancy to change by the time I'm actually ready for a new project!

I also sewed this week. I worked on my 1868 green silk dress for a few evenings. I think the bodice is ready for piping and checking my sleeve pattern again. Plus the waist on the skirt is set. I think I'll do the faced hem on it this week and have finished with the skirt construction. After the bodice is put together, I'll start the miles of trim.

Finally, I worked on my cross-stitch garters. They're slow, but they move along.
atherleisure: (Default)
I don't have any grand updates to post. Since I finished the pelisse a couple of weeks ago, I've mostly been knitting. I worked on an 1871 fanchon hood until I ran out of yarn (and wouldn't you know that color would be back-ordered?) then started a little bag using an 1877 pattern for a bag for bluing. Then I started a pair of stockings from Esther Copley's The Comprehensive Knitting Book. The 1907 sweater is finished, and I'll try to get pictures of it in a day or two.

Then I spent a little time working on my cross-stitched garters over the weekend. I have all the quatrefoils defined now.

Last night I finally got back to my 1868 green silk dress. I'm nearly ready to cut the sleeves, and then I'll be able to do all the piping.

At least I have pictures of the pelisse.

1800's Pelisse - Front

1800's Pelisse - Back with Hood up

1800's Pelisse - Back

1800's Pelisse - Front with Hood Up
atherleisure: (Default)
The Hallowe'en costumes are finished! I put in the last stitch and immediately turned around to work on the 18th century bodice pattern Carrie Midura draped on me at Dress U. It hasn't been touched since we returned from Dress U four months ago. I've got a muslin cut out and plans to do any refinement of fit with a friend on Sunday.

I made the decision to leave my 1868 dress on hold a little longer while I finish up my husband's cross-stitched lady and make a 1780's jacket. I want the jacket for Holidays at Smithfield and the 1868 dress couldn't possibly be done by Hallowe'en so reprioritization time again. I really don't usually keep rearranging my sewing plans like this, but sometimes things happen.

Now what to do tonight? I can either work on cross-stitching or start doing more quilting on my 1780's bum pad that I made this summer that just doesn't have the oomph I wanted out of it. I'm hoping that more quilting and possibly resetting the waist will help.
atherleisure: (Default)
This week I finished my 18th century stockings, to my surprise and pleasure. I then started a 1937 knit cami-knickers and am proving my questionable sanity by starting one of those knit 18th century pinballs, the tiny gauge ones that are probably beyond my knitting skill. 3-0 needles really didn't seem small at all, but the 6-0 ones are going to take some getting used to.

I made decent progress on my 1868 green silk dress, fitting and sewing the darts and making up the waistband. I know it's not much, but I'm trying to split my time between that and the children's Hallowe'en costumes. They are now all cut out except for the buckram for the witch hat, and I'm waiting for the millinery wire I ordered to arrive before I start on the hat. I've run up a few seams on the two outfits but still haven't made it through the first round of seams before pressing. There's loads of time before Hallowe'en.

And, as I do every week, I worked on my husband's cross-stitched lady. I'm getting close to finishing the top left quadrant. The whole thing should be finished by...mid-February. Three days a week cross-stitching really cuts into my time for other needlework.
atherleisure: (Default)
This week I continued to work on my 1868 dress. My bodice now looks like a bodice except that it needs darts. I didn't put on my corset to fit them Thursday night, choosing instead to be good and start pressing my new bolt of muslin. I got through about half of it. I suppose I should finish pressing that tonight, and then I can get back to sewing with a little less guilt.

The 18th century stockings progress, even though I haven't knit a stitch this weekend. I've only got about 75 rows left, and after 30 of those rows, they start decreasing fairly dramatically. I should be able to finish them in time for the Wilderness Trail Festival in three weeks. And I've ordered yarn for my 1937 wooly cami-knickers so I should be able to start on that as soon as I finish the stockings.

The cross-stitching progresses. I'll be glad when it's finished, and I can sew on the weekends too. Giving up three days worth of free time a week really cuts into how much you get done.
atherleisure: (Default)
Nothing monumental happened this week so this is another "week in review" post.

I worked on my 1868 dress that I cut last week. The skirt is ready to be pleated to the waistband, but I want to wait until the bodice is put together to set the length of the waistband. The false three-piece back has been sewn, and I started putting on the eyes. I've only got two on so finishing hooks and eyes and other bodice work will probably take most of the week. I finished the heel flap on my second 18th century stocking, and I made good cross-stitching progress on my husband's lady. All in all, a pleasing week, even if it wasn't very exciting.

I also washed my new bolt of muslin but am avoiding pressing it. Now I have a heap of fabric in my storage closet that I make faces at every time I go in there.

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