atherleisure: (Default)
2017-07-12 08:57 pm

Fichu Shape

I've been looking at the portrait I'm trying to copy and trying to figure out what shape the kerchief/fichu is. Is it square? If not square, what is it?


You can zoom in quite a bit on the Met website here: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/436222

It looks like it's something very sheer with a lot of drape to it. My thought would be silk gauze (modern gauze,) but even that might be too heavy. It seems to have three stripes around the border, which I assume are silk ribbon, roughly 1/4" (6mm) wide and spaced only about 1/8" (3mm) apart. They could have been woven into it, but I'm never going to find that so I would think that applying china silk ribbons would be my best option.

It's long enough to come around from the back across the breast and tie in a bow at the back, but there doesn't seem to be all that much bunched up at the neck. There are definitely two layers at the neck. My experience with 45-45-90 triangular fichus is that there is always a lot of fabric bunched at the neck that needs to be pinned into submission. That's the same shape you get with a square folded on the diagonal so if it were square, it seems like there should be more material at the back of the neck than I see in the painting. On the other hand, the points hanging down from the neck look like right angles, and I can't see how to get two right angles opposite each other without being a square or being some wonky shape with a seam down the middle. I don't see a seam in the painting.

Any suggestions? Any thoughts? Anything I'm missing? Please help!
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-07-09 03:14 pm

Most of a Dress

I have basically finished the 1790 striped gown based on the one in this picture from the Met.


http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/436222?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=trinquesse&pos=2

I still need to do the cuffs, but I don't have the fabric yet. I want to do the kerchief/fichu as well and will do the cuffs when I do them. In the meantime, it's put away for a few months. No pictures of it on me until it's done, but I do have a couple of detail pictures for now.

The pattern matching came out very nicely on the back. The matching at the shoulder seams was purely fortuitous; I didn't even pay attention to it when I was cutting everything out.
1790 Striped Gown Upper Back Detail

And the pleats happened to work out so that the pattern repeat on the fabric was the pleat depth plus reveal so all of the lighter color is pleated out at the waist but falls on the folds. I wasn't trying to do that at all, but I like it that it happened.
1790 Striped Dress Waist Detail

Everything will need to be pressed at some point, but my iron was unavailable at the time so that will wait until I get back to it this fall.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-07-01 07:34 am

Williamsburg Trip

We went to Williamsburg for vacation this year, but we didn't take a long enough trip to make the driving worthwhile. Last year we were gone almost three weeks with Williamsburg and Louisville, but this year it was only a week and a half. It just wasn't long enough, and it didn't help that the drive up ended up taking four extra hours due to various traffic jams. We did come back through Louisville, but we were only there long enough to go to church and lunch. We were a month too early for the Jane Austen Festival.

We spent three days at the Colonial Williamsburg historic district, but it turns out that they have rearranged their schedules so that all the shops are open on the weekends. We didn't go on any weekend days so we were hunting for open shops quite a bit. It was still nice, but it was just less satisfying than previous trips.

On the other hand, there were certainly lots of good points. The weavers had a table loom set up for children to try out, and my girls loved it and kept asking to go back. We got to lunch and hang out with [livejournal.com profile] reine_de_coudre one afternoon, which was very nice, and we went to the Williamsburg Heritage Dancers' regular Tuesday night session for the first time. And I wore my new linen items.

DSC_0095

DSC_0094

I finished my stockings in time to wear them, and you can get a glimpse of them in the picture above. Unfortunately, I forgot to get a good picture of them while I had them on so I'll have to do that sooner or later.

The other outfit I wore was my c. 1780 wool gown.

DSC_1188

DSC_1186

The third day was 21st century wear.

I've heard so much about linen being the coolest to wear that I wanted to test it out. One day I had a wool gown with cotton-lined bodice and sleeves, a cotton shift, and wool stockings. The next day I had a linen jacket, linen petticoat, linen shift, and wool stockings. Both days I had the same cotton and wool stays, and the weather was about the same. My conclusion was that the linen wasn't actually cooler to wear, but that it did keep me from feeling that the sweat was running down me.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-27 04:06 pm

Stocking Cotton!

I found lace-weight cotton yarn that is not mercerized* at Walmart of all places today!  It's soft and fairly fine and on clearance so I bought all five skeins they had for the late 19th century openwork stockings I've been wanting to make.  (Four would probably be enough, but with it being on clearance, prudence dictated purchasing the fifth as well.)  I wish it were a bit finer, but I think it's as good as it's going to get.  

Life being what it is, there's no way I'll start knitting them for at least six months, but I'm excited that I have the yarn.  Now to find a pattern I like...



*or at least, if it is mercerized, it doesn't have the hard finish that most of the finer weights of knitting cotton have
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-25 07:53 am
Entry tags:

Knit Plain

You would think that by now I'd have it down that "knit plain" means stockinette. Why did I start garter-stitching the collar of the slipover bodice yesterday? Grumble, rip out, start again. At least I didn't have to pick the stitches up again and could rip back to the first row knit. I had enough time to get past where I was when I realized I had messed up.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-21 11:56 am
Entry tags:

1919 Slipover Bodice Progress

I've finished the main body of the 1919 slipover bodice and am blocking it. I've got a white/natural wool for the collar, but in searching through my Ravelry project list (yes, Ravelry is how I keep track of what I used for everything) I find that I've only used two different sport weight wools so I'll have to get something else for the edgings.

Here's what it looks like right now.
1919 Slipover Bodice - blocking

I found another error in the pattern - when joining the two fronts together, you have to cast on 13 stitches to make the pattern come out right. The pattern calls for casting on 8, but when you look at the picture, it clearly adds 13 stitches.

Incidentally, when I actually knit the front, I found that it mirrors the back armscye so the side seam does fall under the arms. The ribbing made it look really shallow in back, but in blocking it, it really doesn't look so shallow after all.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-11 06:25 am

Knitting Projects

 I've done a bit of knitting the last few days.  My stockings are finished with time to spare. Interestingly, I had about two yards of yarn left at the end of the second stocking after running out on the first stocking. I don't know if the extra stitches I picked up after the heel on the first stocking pushed me over the edge on needing more yarn or the yardage was just slightly lower in the first two balls than the second two. In the end, I do have just one odd-colored toe. 

I started working on the 17th century garters I've talked about before. I gauged them and knit about an inch before I decided they weren't working. I posted about the attempt on LJ (http://atherleisure.livejournal.com/114983.html) because I didn't want to add the picture to Flickr.  Something more the texture of the silk embroidery floss I've used for pinballs would probably work better, but the floss itself wouldn't be suitable.

I also started working on the 1919 Slipover Bodice that Wearing History sells. I'm guessing that it comes from the 1919 edition of The Columbia Book of Yarns, but I can't find that one online so it's just a guess.  Since I don't know where it comes from, I don't want to add it to the Ravelry database.  (She put it in as a personal pattern when she did her project page.)  I am hoping this will use up the rest of the leftover yarn from the 1892 petticoat as well as a couple of sport-weight leftovers from other projects. I don't mind having a fabric stash, but I don't really want a yarn stash so I'm always extra happy to use up the leftovers.

Incidentally, there is an error in the slipover bodice pattern - it says to cast on 76 stitches for the back, but the pattern doesn't work out that way.  It needs to be 77 stitches. Then you have 61 left after narrowing for the armscyes and cast off 23 for the neck. I'm only just to the neck so I don't know if there will be any more issues. As often happens for me, I had to go down a needle size.  I find it interesting that the armscye is quite shallow on the back (and therefore presumably much deeper on the front) like the 1907 sweater and 1912 vest I've made so the shift to sweater seams directly under the arm like modern sweaters must post-date about 1919 but has occurred by about 1937 because my c. 1937 sweater does have the seams under the arms.  I may be the only one who finds that interesting, though.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-06 07:12 am

1897 Harper's Bazar Dress

I finally finished my white wool dress based on an illustration from Harper's Bazar in October, 1897.

1897 Harper's Bazar Dress

1897 Harper's Bazar Dress

1897 Harper's Bazar Dress

1897 Harper's Bazar Dress

1897 Harper's Bazar Dress
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-05 08:53 am

Finished Shift

I finished my new late 18th century shift. It's really boring, but it is linen and hand-sewn so I'm pleased with it. This time I'm sure I hand-sewed it from sheer laziness; getting out the sewing machine seemed like way too much trouble, especially knowing that I would have to put it away again immediately.

I used the same measurements as the last cotton one I made, though I did have to piece the sleeves a bit because I mistakenly thought the measurements were with seam allowances. No big deal.

Linen Late 18th Century Shift

I only have 130 rows left on my stockings - the next dozen or so reduce every other row, then there are about eighty plain rows before the toe shaping starts, and the reductions are rapid for those last forty rows.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-03 02:38 pm

Turning the Heel

The 3+ hour drive to Six Flags and the 4+ hour drive home were very good for the stocking I'm knitting. I finished knitting the heel flap, picked up the stitches for the foot, and knit the first half dozen rows of the foot. Now the $64,000 question is whether I can finish the remaining 150 rows in time to wear the new stockings in Williamsburg this summer!
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-06-01 09:09 am

Garter Thoughts

Look!  Someone actually posted about examining the 17th century garters at the MFA!  attack-laurel.livejournal.com/73932.html She confirms that they appear to be knit in the round and at about the gauge I was expecting.  I might have ordered silk thread yesterday...
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-31 05:19 pm
Entry tags:

Jacket Finished

I finished a new 18th century linen jacket last night.

18th Century Linen Jacket

It's more or less modeled on this one but with shorter sleeves.

c. 1790 printed cotton jacket
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/544865254909104161/

It went much faster than I expected.  I cut it out Friday night and finished sewing last night.  I hand-sewed the whole thing, but I haven't quite decided whether it was because I was being accurate or lazy.  It's a very hazy line right now.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-29 08:21 am

Victorian Tea

At the beginning of May we had a small Victorian tea at the Smiths' house. There were only five ladies in attendance (though a couple of uncostumed husbands were hanging around). I chose not to take the children along this time, though there would have been plenty for them to do on the Smith farm.

It seemed wildly appropriate that the two hostesses wore tea gowns and the two visitors wore walking dresses. The fifth was not in costume. I finally got a chance to wear my 1886 navy and silver dress for something better than trick-or-treating.

492E61FC0C1F4EDBA52CA51935D6B9F7

More pictures under the cut... )
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-25 07:57 pm

Last Ball

I started the last ball of yarn for my stockings, which is much more exciting than it sounds. I still have a long way to go, but it's a major milestone in the project.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-23 10:08 am
Entry tags:

Another Petticoat

Petticoats aren't very interesting, but they don't take very long either. Here's another one.

Linen 18th Century Petticoat

Then I want to do a jacket, but I'm still figuring out exactly what I want. It would have been sensible to make the jacket first because I have another petticoat that would go with the yellow linen but don't have another jacket that would go with this petticoat, but since I still haven't quite figured out what I want, that isn't the way I did it.

(This isn't strictly 1780's, but I already had the tag and didn't want to make a new one.)
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-18 01:48 pm

Hemming Finished!

I finished the ruffle on my skirt last night. Fortunately, it decided not to be recalcitrant, and I was able to pin and stitch it. I want to tack the buckram into place better in a couple of spots, but then the dress will be finished. I really should try it on tonight...

Here's the ruffle.
1897 Dress - Hem Ruffle

This is one of those weird times when it was actually cheaper to use a silk taffeta than synthetic. I wanted one of those lightweight acetate taffetas for the hem ruffle, but JoAnn's no longer sells such a thing. I had the heavier weight striped silk in my stash and no plan for it. It only cost $5/yd, and the heavy polyester JoAnn's had was $10/yd and no coupon. Just weird.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-16 07:23 am

Hemming, Again

I seriously underestimated the amount of time this little ruffle under the hem would take. I only managed to gather about a quarter of it and stitch a sixteenth of it last night. At this rate, it's going to take me all week!
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-11 06:28 pm

Hemming

Hemming with a 12" (30 cm) strip of buckram sandwiched between the skirt and the facing does not make for a fun or quick and easy hem! I'm glad it's done now.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-10 09:03 am

Getting Close!

I've got the last strip of trim pinned on the skirt for my Harper's Bazar dress!

1897 skirt trim

Then I'll just have a few days of work to deal with the hem. Another day or two will let me finish the belt, and I think I should be done by next weekend.
atherleisure: (Default)
2017-05-07 10:57 am
Entry tags:

Aran Cardigan

I finished my Aran cardigan! I really thought I'd have to put it down for the summer and would be picking it back up in the fall, but I guess I didn't account for how quickly Aran weight yarn and size 7 (4.5 mm) needles would make it go. Fortunately, we've had a few mornings that have been cool enough to wear it, which has made me ridiculously happy.

Aran Sweater - Front 2

Aran Sweater - Front

Aran Sweater Unbuttoned

Aran Sweater - Back

I had an Aran cardigan that I got in Ireland many years ago, and I wore it all the time (okay, not in the summer!) for about ten years. About five years ago I gave up on trying to keep the cuffs from raveling from wear along the edges. It always was a little too big so I'm very excited to have a new one that fits much better. Since this one fits better, I hope the cuffs won't wear so badly - the old one actually had cuffs that would sneak down onto my hands to be the length of a Regency sleeve so I'm sure that accelerated their demise.

There are still about 3.5 balls of yarn left from the kit so I need to find a cable knit tam pattern to go with the sweater. Then I may need to find out what else one can do with Aran weight yarn. Definitely nothing historical since there's nothing like enough to knit a blanket, which I wouldn't want to do anyway.